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【France Paris】Kering Creates Dedicated Jewelry Division to Power Growth

Buyer note

Kering's creation of a dedicated jewelry division signals a strategic pivot toward high-margin categories, with buyers watching for increased demand for gemstones and findings. The integration of Italian manufacturer Raselli Franco Group highlights a supply-chain risk for OEM partners as Kering strengthens in-house capabilities. Regulatory questions may arise around sourcing transparency as the group scales.

Kering has established a dedicated jewelry division, Kering Jewelry, to accelerate growth for its Boucheron, Pomellato, Dodo, and Qeelin brands, which together generate nearly €1 billion annually. The move signals the French luxury group's strategic focus on jewelry as a high-potential category, with implications for global supply-chain partners and buyers.

Strategic reorganization

Kering announced the creation of Kering Jewelry as an integrated platform to support the growth of its jewelry houses, building on their creative identities and high-jewelry collections. Jean-Marc Duplaix has been appointed CEO of the new unit, effective immediately, while retaining his role as group COO. The CEOs of the jewelry houses will report to him.

New reporting segments from Q1 2026

Starting in the first quarter of 2026, Kering will report results for four operating segments: fashion and leather goods (including Gucci, Saint Laurent, Bottega Veneta, Balenciaga, McQueen, and Brioni), Kering Jewelry, Kering Eyewear, and corporate and other. Each division will disclose revenue breakdown, performance by distribution channel, and regional sales data for fashion and jewelry.

Supply-chain impact

The division will integrate Kering's staged acquisition of Italian manufacturer Raselli Franco Group, which brings exceptional savoir-faire and cutting-edge technologies. This move signals Kering's intent to strengthen in-house manufacturing capabilities, potentially affecting sourcing strategies for OEM/ODM partners and component suppliers in the jewelry supply chain.

Growth potential and performance

Kering CEO Luca de Meo sees strong growth potential in jewelry, noting Gucci's jewelry business was three times larger a decade ago. In Q4 2025, the jewelry division posted a 10% revenue increase to €266 million (17% organic growth), while fashion and leather goods fell 11%. Full-year jewelry revenues reached €935 million, compared to €12.2 billion for fashion, indicating significant upside.

What buyers should watch

Overseas buyers should monitor Kering's Capital Markets Day on April 16 in Florence, where de Meo will present the strategic roadmap. The reorganization may lead to increased demand for high-quality findings, gemstones, and packaging from Kering's jewelry brands, as well as potential shifts in sourcing preferences toward Italian manufacturing partners.

Source: Read the original report | Published: March 16, 2026