【Sri Lanka】Commerce: ‘Fair’ Sapphires

Editor’s Note

This article highlights a pioneering achievement in ethical sourcing, detailing how Marc Dole of Dijon has created the world’s first fair trade supply chain for colored gemstones. It explores the passion and expertise behind this groundbreaking initiative.

Le centre de formation de l’association Bâtisseurs d’espoirs accueille de jeunes Sri Lankaises  et leur apprend, notamment, la taille des pierres de couleur. Photo  LBP
A World First in Fair Trade Colored Stones

Marc Dole from Dijon has established a fair trade supply chain for colored gemstones. This is a world first.

A Lifelong Passion

A former importer of stones from Asia, South Africa, and Africa, Marc Dole is not only an indefatigable globetrotter but has also been a lover of colored stones for over 25 years.

Ancient Extraction Methods

It is in Sri Lanka that he has, so to speak, settled down. The Asian country, home to the world’s most beautiful sapphires, immediately appealed to the man from Dijon, especially since the extraction of the stones, which is traditional, follows ancient methods.

“The smallest mines employ about ten people. The largest ones employ 150 workers. It’s a poorly paid job, between 8,000 and 12,000 rupees per week (between €53 and €80), knowing that the average salary in Sri Lanka is 20,000 rupees,” explains Marc Dole.

In 2000, he publicly denounced the so-called ‘composite’ rubies sold by jewelers.

“It’s a stone treated with lead glass, bought for $10 on the market and sometimes sold for up to €8,000. We even saw some in a shop in Dijon…” adds the Dijon native, without elaborating further.
“A decree was issued in 2002, it is supposed to protect the stone buyer. It is little or not applied. I wanted to go further, to the source, so that the stone could be traced and certified,” he adds.

Marc Dole launched the “Fair Gems process” in 2003. It is in Sri Lanka that this process, which guarantees the quality of colored stones as well as production adhering to the principles of sustainable development, was launched. Today, no fewer than 168 Sri Lankan producers have signed the “Fair gems” charter, which notably guarantees better working conditions for mine workers.

“We discussed with local producers. We made them understand that Sri Lanka could be a model for the production and sale of colored stones. We work in collaboration with them, not as lecturers,” emphasizes the man from Dijon.
Building Hope Through an NGO

He also founded an NGO in Sri Lanka, “Builders of Hope”. The structure allows young Sri Lankan women to escape precariousness and benefit from training, on one hand in gemology and precious stone cutting, and on the other in accounting, languages, IT, and tourism.

Teaching is provided by education professionals under the auspices of the Sri Lankan Ministry of Education. Young Europeans who wish to can go for 6 months to a year to participate in supervising this initiative on a voluntary basis. A young woman from Dijon, Aurélie, is currently working there.

It should be noted that the funding for school equipment was provided by the Rotary Club of Dijon-Toison d’Or, which was joined by the American Rotary International for a total grant of $73,000.

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⏰ Published on: June 18, 2011