Editor’s Note
In this interview, acclaimed jewelry designer Marie-Helene de Taillac discusses her creative process and the enduring appeal of her vibrant, gemstone-focused brand.
Interview
Jewelry designer Marie-Helene de Taillac visited Japan for a signing event for her book “GOLD AND GEMS THE JEWELS OF MARIE-HELENE DE TAILLAC,” published by Rizzoli. Her brand, ‘Marie-Helene de Taillac,’ known for its use of colorful semi-precious stones, enjoys high popularity among women worldwide. More than 20 years have passed since she launched her brand. During her visit, we asked Taillac about her creative process.
WWD: What inspired you to become a jewelry designer?
“I’ve loved jewelry since I was a child. When I designed my first collection in 1996, fashion was dominated by grunge, and minimalist brands like JIL SANDER were very popular. I loved colorful fashion, and there was no jewelry on the market that matched it. I thought Elsa Peretti’s designs for TIFFANY & CO. were wonderful, but they were mainly gold jewelry. Because I wanted jewelry that matched fashion, I designed it myself in ’96, and sales started the following year.”
WWD: How do you feel about publishing your own book?
“It’s very exciting. Because many of my jewelry pieces are one-of-a-kind, the book is important as a record of various past works. Over 20 years have passed since I started the brand, and jewelry has also changed. I want young customers who don’t know about 20 years ago to see that too. I believe my simple designs influenced the classic jewelry market. I am also a collector of jewelry-related books and have all sorts of things, like books on CARTIER’s 1920s works, ancient Greek jewelry, and books on Suzanne Belperron, an innovative 20th-century jewelry designer.”
WWD: What is the most enjoyable part of the creation process?
“The center of my creation is gemstones. I am fascinated by gemstones that have formed naturally underground over millions of years. There are many gem dealers in Paris, France, so I source stones from them. Sometimes they are cut at my atelier in Jaipur, India, and sometimes I source stones cut at the mining locations, like Madagascar. The most enjoyable part is designing the shape and cut of the stone. I line up the cut stones on a table and visualize in my head. What I never compromise on in creation is color. It seems like the eye structure is different between people who only handle diamonds and those who handle colored stones. I can distinguish more color nuances.”
WWD: What is your brand philosophy?
“To be a brand made with love. Stones reflect emotions and can change energy or mood, so when I’m sad, I try not to touch stones. I want customers to be happy by wearing my jewelry. I also pay attention to the work environment so that all staff can work comfortably. Although it’s a small brand I started alone, I think it’s an incredible luxury to be able to create honestly with myself and to be independent and free to do what I like. For example, I can do crazy things like covering the salon table in the boutique with 46,000 carats of aquamarine.”
WWD: What makes you different from other jewelry brands?
“It’s not a status symbol but personal jewelry for one’s own enjoyment. I go to various cities for book signings, and people who share my sensibility gather. I feel joy in creating jewelry using beautiful stones, and customers feel happy wearing it. The jewelry I design makes both of us happy. Classic jewelers can be intimidating and hard to approach, but my boutique is designed like a living room where people can relax. Also, I prepare jewelry that anyone can try on.”
WWD: Colorful stones are your signature, but what is your favorite stone? How do you combine stones?
“My favorite is Paraiba tourmaline. I love pink, so I also like rubellite. The glossy red of red poppy-colored spinel is wonderful. I also love sapphires, which have many color variations and a cloth-like shine. These stones seem to speak to me. Combining stones is like painting a picture. I place stones on a table and find combinations that enhance each other’s beauty. It’s meditative work.”
WWD: Many jewelers use 18k gold, but why are you particular about 22k gold?
“22k gold has a beautiful color like antique gold, as if it makes you forget time. 18k gold is artificial and, to me, is not gold.”
WWD: What does jewelry mean to you? What jewelry do you wear every day?
“It’s always a source of joy and also a talisman. Gemstones are stars from the earth. When I see them, I can’t help but smile. It depends on my mood, but I wear earrings and a bracelet every day. If I don’t wear them, I feel almost naked. It’s like lipstick.”