Editor’s Note
In this interview, jewelry designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac reflects on the creative journey behind her acclaimed brand, renowned for its vibrant use of semi-precious stones. She discusses the inspirations and experiences that shaped her path over the past two decades.
The Journey to Becoming a Jewelry Designer
Jewelry designer Marie-Hélène de Taillac visited Japan for a signing event for her book “Gold and Gems Marie-Hélène de Taillac,” published by Rizzoli. Her brand, known for its use of colorful semi-precious stones, has gained high acclaim from women worldwide. Over 20 years have passed since she launched her brand. WWD spoke with Taillac about her creative process.
WWD: What prompted you to become a jewelry designer?
“I’ve loved jewelry since I was a child. When I designed my first collection in 1996, fashion was dominated by grunge, and minimalist brands like JIL SANDER were very popular. I loved colorful fashion, but there was no jewelry on the market that matched it. I thought Elsa Peretti’s designs for TIFFANY & CO. were wonderful, but they were mainly gold jewelry. I wanted jewelry that matched fashion, so I designed it myself in ’96, and sales started the following year.”
Thoughts on Publishing a Book
WWD: How do you feel about publishing your own book?
“It’s very exciting. Since many of my jewelry pieces are one-of-a-kind, the book is important as a record of various past works. Over 20 years have passed since I started the brand, and the jewelry has also evolved. I want younger customers who don’t know about 20 years ago to see it too. I believe my simple designs have influenced what was a classic jewelry market. I’m also a collector of jewelry-related books myself—I have everything from collections of CARTIER’s works from the 1920s, to ancient Greek jewelry, to books on the innovative 20th-century jewelry designer Suzanne Belperron.”
The Most Enjoyable Part of the Creative Process
WWD: What’s the most enjoyable part of your creative process?
“The center of my creation is gemstones. I’m fascinated by gemstones that have formed naturally underground over millions of years. There are many gem dealers in Paris, France, so I source stones from them. Sometimes they are cut at my atelier in Jaipur, India, and sometimes I source stones cut at the mining locations, like Madagascar. The most enjoyable part is designing the shape and cut of the stone. I line up the cut stones on a table and envision them in my mind. What I never compromise on in creation is color. It seems like people who only deal with diamonds and people who deal with colored stones have different eye structures. I can distinguish more color nuances.”
Brand Philosophy
WWD: What is your brand philosophy?
“To be a brand made with love. Because stones reflect emotions and can change energy and mood, I try not to touch stones when I’m sad. I want customers to be happy by wearing my jewelry. I’m also careful about the work environment so all staff can work comfortably. It’s a small brand I started alone, but I think being able to create honestly with myself and independently do what I like is an incredible luxury. For example, I can do crazy things like covering the salon table in the boutique with 46,000 carats of aquamarine.”
What Sets the Brand Apart
WWD: What makes your brand different from other jewelry brands?
“It’s not a status symbol, but personal jewelry for one’s own enjoyment. I go to various cities for book signings, and people who share my sensibility gather. I feel joy in creating jewelry using beautiful stones, and customers feel happy wearing it. The jewelry I design makes both of us happy. Classic jewelers can be intimidating and hard to approach, but my boutique is designed to be relaxing, like a living room. Also, I prepare jewelry that anyone can try on.”
Favorite Stones and Color Combinations
WWD: Colorful stones are your signature, but what is your favorite stone? How do you combine stones?
“My favorite is Paraiba tourmaline. I love pink, so I also like rubellite. The glossy red of red poppy-colored spinel is wonderful. I also love sapphire, which has many color variations and a cloth-like shine. These stones seem to speak to me. Combining stones is like painting. I place stones on a table and find combinations that enhance each other’s beauty. It’s meditative work.”
Insistence on 22-Karat Gold
WWD: Many jewelers use 18-karat gold, but why are you particular about 22-karat gold?
“22-karat gold has a beautiful color like antique gold, as if it makes you forget time. 18-karat gold is artificial and, to me, is not gold.”
The Meaning of Jewelry
WWD: What does jewelry mean to you? What jewelry do you wear every day?
“It’s always a source of joy and also a talisman. Gemstones are stars from the earth. When I see them, I can’t help but smile. It depends on my mood, but I wear earrings and a bracelet every day. If I don’t wear them, I feel almost naked. It’s like lipstick.”
