Editor’s Note
This article clarifies the distinction between fine jewelry, which involves both mass production and handcrafting, and high jewelry, which represents the pinnacle of handcrafted artistry using only the most exceptional materials.
Fine jewelry is a general term for jewelry made with 14K or higher gold, platinum, or natural gemstones. It typically involves a mix of mass production and handcrafting. While it requires significant work hours and specialized skills, a skilled artisan can complete a piece in just a few hours.
In contrast, high jewelry refers to the most premium jewelry, crafted by hand with artistry from the finest materials that have survived rigorous selection. It demands a ‘higher’ level of craftsmanship and technical skill than fine jewelry, and it’s commonplace for a single piece to take hundreds of hours to create. While there is some overlap between the two categories, they show clear differences in the production process and value assessment criteria.
High jewelry can be succinctly described as the haute couture of the jewelry world. It is an artistic, handcrafted endeavor that uses precious materials and embodies a dedicated artisan spirit to present a creative vision for our lives. Consequently, the price pressure is significant, but it’s difficult to define high jewelry by price alone, as each brand has different standards and policies for it.
The same applies to the gemstones used. Even if it’s a ‘pigeon’s blood’ ruby from Myanmar, can it truly be called high jewelry if it’s set in a mass-produced, uninspired design? In reality, in this world, even atypical materials can be reborn as high jewelry depending on who makes them and how.
This is an era where the key lies not just in tradition and creation, but in the harmony of innovation imbued with an experimental spirit and heritage.
The ultimate goal of high jewelry is to showcase the jeweler’s artistry, signature know-how, and supreme craftsmanship. Therefore, one must consider all aspects: gemstones selected by strict standards, innovative or exceptional technical skill, original design, the designer’s ability to unfold imagination and story, and flawless finish. It must be perfect from every angle, making the front, back, sides, clasp, intermediate links, and accessories all important.
Even a seemingly simple solitaire ring, if it’s high jewelry, requires an immense investment of time and effort to perfect details like the golden ratio, polishing, and setting. Even if voluminous, ergonomic design and comfortable wearability are essential. If a pavé-set section (where small gemstones are set densely like cobblestones) catches on clothing or isn’t smooth, the piece should be filtered out no matter how beautiful the design.
For colored stones, if all other conditions are equal, color becomes the most important factor determining value. Here, reports (identification/grading reports) issued by authoritative gemological laboratories play a key role. A gemological report is an opinion document compiled based on scientific observation and analysis. Its final destination is the judgment of the jewelry’s value.
So-called precious stones like ruby, sapphire, and emerald can vary greatly in price depending on whether and to what extent they have been treated. Among high-quality stones, those mined from prestigious origins like Myanmar, Kashmir, or Sri Lanka may command a premium. As gem identification and grading technologies advance daily, more recently issued reports tend to have higher reliability.
So, is a report necessary for every product? It is essential when the gemstones used are expensive types like diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, or Paraíba tourmaline, where treatment or origin has a significant impact. However, for very small gemstones set in groups, the product information provided by the brand may be sufficient. In such cases, value should be assessed based on design harmony with the stones, craftsmanship, brand, artistry, etc. This, of course, assumes it’s a trustworthy brand.
High jewelry takes considerable time to produce, but this process is also one of encapsulating time. This is because it faithfully reflects the zeitgeist and cultural influences of the moment of its inception. Looking back at the last century, the most valuable jewelry pieces were those that combined rare gemstones with the finest techniques, original design, and reflected the ‘spirit of the times.’ The golden age of high jewelry—the most radiant and enchanting existence, created by nature, refined by humanity, and destined to become part of an individual’s history and legacy—has already begun.