Editor’s Note
This selection highlights three standout timepieces, each pushing boundaries in its own way. From Rolex’s vibrant new dial design to Chanel’s bold monochrome statement, these watches offer fresh perspectives on contemporary horology.
Rolex / Oyster Perpetual 36
Astonishing new frontier in dial design
A popular model debuts in unprecedented vibrant colors. The rhythmic dot pattern is also fresh, creating a colorful and unique dial named the “Celebration Motif.”
Watch [Stainless Steel, Automatic, Case Diameter 36mm] ¥723,800 [Estimated price, scheduled for release this summer] (Rolex / Rolex Japan)
Chanel / J12 Cybernetic
Monochrome yet bold. A testament to design prowess
A piece from this year’s capsule collection. It connects a cut black case with a pixelated white case, offering a graphic reinterpretation of the “J12.”
Watch [High-resistance Ceramic × Stainless Steel, Automatic, Case Diameter 38mm] ¥2,013,000 [Limited quantity] (Chanel)
Gucci / G-Timeless Planetarium
Playing with the tourbillon to this extent
Gucci presented its new collection at a mansion by Lake Geneva during W&W. Twelve colored gemstones rotate individually, with the entire assembly revolving like a merry-go-round.
Watch [Opal × Garnet × Diamond × Tourmaline × Ruby × Pink Gold, Manual-winding, Case Diameter 40mm] ¥48,620,000 [Reference price] (Gucci / Gucci Japan)
This spring, the new watch trade fair “Watches and Wonders Geneva 2023” (hereafter W&W) was held in Geneva, Switzerland. The luxury watch market is currently booming. While I will share my personal views on this from this issue, the first installment focuses on W&W, where brands fiercely compete and intense watch business negotiations take place.
During the event, signs featuring new watch models adorned various locations throughout Geneva, showcasing the city’s efforts to promote W&W. This is no surprise, as W&W is a crucial tourism resource for the city. According to the organizers, this year’s attendance reached 43,000 visitors. Despite hotel accommodation costs soaring several times over, they were nearly fully booked. Restaurants thrived, and the city was vibrant. One could sense Switzerland’s national ambition to establish itself as a “watch country.”
Upon entering the venue, the hall on the left featured glass booths: “Patek Philippe” on the right and “Rolex” on the left. Both brands are so popular that their current models are difficult to obtain. Both booths were bustling with activity.
The venue was divided into two halls. Upon entering, the right side featured booths lined up by the “former SIHH group” [*1], including “Cartier” and “Hermès.” On the left side, brands that previously participated in Baselworld, such as “Rolex” and “Patek Philippe,” set up booths similar to those from that era. These “former Baselworld groups” merged [*2] two years ago. Consequently, W&W has become a glamorous stage where major brands gather under one roof.
As a result, the attention was higher than at past trade fairs, prompting each brand to accelerate its pursuit of unique expression to avoid being outshone. This year’s new releases, born from this environment, featured many glamorous and innovative models, as if celebrating the end of the pandemic. “Rolex” and “Chanel” are prime examples. Furthermore, many brands presented more refined works than usual, with upgrades to exteriors and movements. Particularly, the finish of dials has improved significantly across the board. Luxury watches captivate many by pursuing beauty, energizing the watch industry.
Former SIHH group [*1]
The watch trade fair “SIHH,” also known as the Geneva Salon, centered around the Richemont Group, started in 1991. Admission was by invitation, fitting for a luxurious salon. It gave the impression of being part of a refined team. It was renamed and reorganized in 2020, forming the foundation of the current W&W.
Merger of the former Baselworld groups [*2]
Baselworld, the historic jewelry and watch trade fair that began in 1972. Once the world’s largest trade fair, it saw a succession of brands withdraw due to rising exhibition costs and operational shortcomings. It effectively ceased to exist in 2020. Most participants joined W&W, contributing to its expansion.
