Editor’s Note
This November, Christie’s Geneva will present the remarkable private watch collection of Omani businessman Mohammed Zaman, assembled over 45 years. Our European Head of Watches, Remi Guillemin, highlights five personal ‘grail’ pieces from the more than 200 timepieces heading to auction.
More than 200 watches owned by the Omani businessman Mohammed Zaman — forming the most important single-owner collection to come to market in recent times — are to be offered in Geneva. Our Head of Watches in Europe, Remi Guillemin, selects five that he considers his personal ‘grail’ pieces.
A selection of highlights from Passion for Time — An Important Private Collection of Watches and Timepieces on 6 November 2023 at Christie’s in Geneva.
Over the course of 45 years, the Omani businessman Mohammed Zaman has been discreetly building one of the world’s most admired watch collections.
It started almost by accident, in 1978, when he purchased a Rolex Day-Date to celebrate a deal during a work trip to Dubai. Fast forward to the present, and Zaman has acquired more than 500 watches.
Yet his collection isn’t impressive for breadth alone. It contains a rare Patek Philippe with a custom Omani royal ‘Khanjar’ dial; watches with enticing provenance, such as the Rolex GMT Marlon Brando wore in Apocalypse Now; and one-of-a-kind timepieces featuring unique complications created by renowned independent manufacturers such as Philippe Dufour.
There is a theme running through Zaman’s collection, however: a mission to own the best in each category. Or as he calls them, ‘masterpieces of historic watchmaking’.
This November, Christie’s is offering more than 200 watches from Zaman’s collection across two dedicated sales with the same title: Passion for Time — An Important Private Collection of Watches and Timepieces. One will be held live in Geneva on 6 November 2023, and the other online from 7-21 November.
We asked Remi Guillemin, our Head of Watches in Europe, to select five ‘grail’ pieces from the sales that he would take home with him.
George Daniels, a rare and historically important limited edition platinum wristwatch with co-axial escapement, date and power reserve indication, 2017. Anniversary model, no. 00. Case: 40 mm diam. Sold for: CHF 1,860,000 on 6 November 2023 at Christie’s in Geneva.
In the 1970s the British watchmaker George Daniels — renowned for building complex timepieces entirely by hand — invented the co-axial escapement, which virtually eliminated friction in the heart of the watch’s movement, improving precision and durability. It is considered the greatest advancement in escapement design to have happened over the past 200 years.
In 2010, to mark the 35th anniversary of the co-axial escapement, Daniels created this model. It features an entirely new calibre and was completely hand-crafted on the Isle of Man in collaboration with Daniels’ protégé, Roger W. Smith. In 2018, Smith received a knighthood for his services to watchmaking.
Voutilainen, a unique 18k white gold decimal minute repeating wristwatch with power reserve indication, circa 2013. Case: 39.5 mm diam. Sold for: CHF 378,000 on 6 November 2023 at Christie’s in Geneva.
The Finnish watchmaker Kari Voutilainen is another independent manufacturer known for pushing technical boundaries. ‘His watches are mechanical marvels that he has spent decades refining,’ Guillemin says.
As a result, Voutilainen only produces around 50 watches per year, with a single dial alone sometimes taking up to two days to finish.
In 2005, Voutilainen unveiled the world’s first minute repeating watch that chimes at intervals of 10 — rather than 15 — minutes, so that each chime is counted in a way more closely connected to the numbers on a dial.
This particular 18k white gold decimal minute repeater was made circa 2013 and also features a completely unique power reserve sector on the dial, indicating how much energy is left in the mainspring before it needs rewinding.
Rolex, a rare and outstandingly well preserved 18k pink gold automatic triple calendar wristwatch with moon phases and star hour markers, circa 1952. Oyster Perpetual, ‘Stelline’ model, ref. 6062; case no. 788’629. Case: 35 mm diam. Sold for: CHF 2,223,000 on 6 November 2023 at Christie’s in Geneva.
The 6062 is one of Rolex’s most fabled references. Unveiled at Basel Watch Fair in 1950, it was the first triple-calendar moon-phase watch to feature a waterproof case.
It came in a variety of combinations: customers could choose between a stainless steel or gold case, two-tone silver or black dials, and pyramid, dart or even diamond indexes. One of the most unusual options, however, was the ‘Stelline’ variant, which came with stars for hour markers.
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