Editor’s Note
This week marks a pivotal moment for the watch industry as Watches and Wonders opens in Geneva, establishing itself as the premier global salon following the end of Baselworld. The event’s launch reflects the sector’s robust growth and evolving landscape.
World’s Largest Watch Salon Opens in Geneva
The Watches and Wonders high-end watch salon has grandly opened at the Palexpo exhibition center in Geneva. Against the backdrop of historic growth in the watchmaking industry, the world’s largest watch exhibition opened this week in Geneva. Following the discontinuation of the Baselworld International Watch and Jewellery Fair, Watches and Wonders has become the new must-attend global event for the watch industry.
A New Hub for the Industry
From March 27 to April 2, nearly 50 exhibiting brands unveiled their new products at Watches and Wonders. The salon brings together iconic brands such as Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, and TAG Heuer, and has attracted numerous journalists from around the world.
For the first time, the salon and its luxurious booths will also be open to the public (April 1-2). Taking advantage of the thousands of visitors coming to Geneva for the event, smaller watchmaking enterprises with more modest budgets will showcase their timepieces at another exhibition called “Time to Watches” or in various hotels along Lake Geneva.
“The watchmaking community cannot do without a major unifying event,” said Serge Maillard, editor of the watch industry magazine Europa Star. “This will undoubtedly highlight Geneva’s new status as a center of excellence for organizing this cohesive gathering, which is crucial for the smooth functioning of the watch industry.”
Geneva vs. Basel
Geneva and Basel have long competed for the title of hosting the world’s largest watch fair. With the end of Baselworld, Geneva is now the sole anchor on the map.
“For Geneva-based brands, being able to host an exhibition on their doorstep is an undeniable advantage. It’s also easier to manage logistically. These brands (like Rolex or Patek Philippe) take the opportunity to show their factories to retailers and journalists from abroad,” Maillard noted. “If we started a new watch fair in Zurich, which is not watch country, it certainly wouldn’t have the same impact.”
The Enduring Relevance of Physical Fairs
When asked if such fairs are still necessary in our hyper-connected world, Maillard responded:
“Just a few years ago, we often heard questions about the usefulness of such major events. Today, the situation is completely different. The multi-brand watch fair model has not only survived the social networks and the Covid-19 crisis, it has even become stronger.”
“I like to compare it to the Football World Cup. It’s a global football event that brings the main players together while giving the sport great visibility. It’s the same for watchmaking: in an increasingly digital world, it’s even more necessary to raise collective awareness and bring the industry’s main players together under one roof.”
He emphasized that Watches and Wonders is an event for networking and exchange, particularly highlighting the tangible nature of watches, creating a desire to see and even touch them, which gives the fair added legitimacy.
Future Growth and Notable Absences
Regarding the fair’s focus on high-end watches and its potential for expansion, Maillard said several entry-level and mid-range small brands have already joined, which is a positive sign. Concurrent events are also attracting more industry professionals, and the fair is expected to continue growing in the coming years.
He addressed the absence of the Swatch Group, the world’s largest watch group with 17 brands, as well as other major players like Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille:
“At the moment, the Swatch Group has no need to exhibit. The Biel-based group can organize regional events with its own infrastructure without participating in such an international fair. The two other major players in luxury watchmaking, Audemars Piguet and Richard Mille, have also chosen other strategies to promote their new products. But in the long run, it makes sense to bring all the major brands together at one fair.”
Current Trends
On the main trends highlighted by such fairs, Maillard observed:
“Swiss watchmaking is experiencing a veritable golden age. Despite recent banking turmoil causing some concern, the unprecedented export growth observed last year continues. Given that people don’t easily change a successful model, what we are seeing is a consolidation of existing successes rather than a change of era, with each brand focusing on its successful DNA and model. Fashionable sports metal watches with bracelets and chronographs remain at the forefront of current trends.”
