Editor’s Note
This article explores the rising prominence of Cartier among watch collectors, highlighting its consistent second-place ranking in Swiss watch exports since 2021. It attributes this success to the brand’s iconic and instantly recognizable designs, such as the Tank and Ballon Bleu, which appeal to a broad audience.
According to the Swiss watch export rankings published annually by the American financial institution Morgan Stanley, Cartier has consistently held the second position since 2021, taking over the spot long held by Omega. This result is not surprising. This is because Cartier possesses high recognition where one can tell at a glance that it is “Cartier” in any of its collections, such as “Tank,” “Baignoire,” and “Ballon Bleu.” Having high recognition across almost all wristwatch collections, aside from Rolex, Cartier is the leading brand when looking across the entire luxury watch industry.
These product characteristics are the core values that Cartier’s watchmaking has focused on and emphasized in recent years. In addition to developing movements with complex mechanisms, Cartier maintains its expertise and excellence in wristwatch design and conducts numerous promotional activities and exhibitions. Through these activities, watch collectors have come to recognize how exceptional Cartier is in its style and aesthetics.
Furthermore, the influence of this Cartier trend is not limited to the primary market. Cartier is also generating significant buzz in the pre-owned watch market.
Among Cartier’s many masterpieces, the “Crash” has gained high popularity in the pre-owned market in recent years. Inspired by a watch deformed by the heat of a car accident, the Crash features “London” or “Paris” markings on its dial, which are no longer present on current models since Cartier moved its watch manufacturing base to Switzerland. Driven by fervent demand, a Crash model fetched over 700,000 Swiss Francs (approximately 116.613 million yen, 1 CHF = 166.59 yen as of December 20, 2023) at auction in 2022.
Furthermore, the “Pebble,” released in 1972 with only six pieces produced, is another past masterpiece whose popularity has surged in the pre-owned market recently. In 2022, on the 50th anniversary of the Pebble’s creation, Cartier released a limited edition of 150 pieces of the reissue model “Pebble Shape.” Demand for this reissue exceeded supply, and consequently, the market price for the original Pebble also rose significantly. This was because the reissue brought awareness to the Pebble, which had been relatively unknown. At a Bonhams London auction held in December of the same year, a Pebble, initially estimated to sell for 30,000 to 60,000 Swiss Francs, was hammered down for nearly 240,000 pounds (approximately 43.62 million yen, 1 GBP = 181.79 yen as of December 20, 2023).
However, it’s not just the Crash and Pebble that are attracting collectors’ attention. The “Tank,” in particular, deserves close attention. At first glance a simple collection, the Tank possesses beautiful proportions based on the universally appealing golden ratio, making it look natural on anyone. Furthermore, the fact that various variations can be developed based on the Tank makes it “universally appealing,” meaning it captures the hearts of many collectors.
Bonhams held its autumn auction at the end of November 2023. Among the lots was the “Tank Asymétrique,” which breaks the tradition of symmetry by shifting the lines on both sides of the case, transforming the Tank’s originally upright design. Also offered was the “Cloche,” with its similarly asymmetrical design inspired by a bell. The Cloche features a specially thickened case at the 9 o’clock side, so when placed horizontally on a desktop, it resembles a miniature clock tower, showcasing Cartier’s creativity in design.
The Tank Asymétrique and Cloche were revived two years ago as part of the “Cartier Privé” collection. However, this reissue was produced in limited numbers, leading watch enthusiasts and collectors to seek out authentic vintage models. The two timepieces that appeared at Bonhams sold, including buyer’s premium, for 256,000 Hong Kong Dollars (approximately 4.70528 million yen, 1 HKD = 18.38 yen as of December 20, 2023, same below) for the Tank Asymétrique and 281,600 Hong Kong Dollars (approximately 5.1758 million yen) for the Cloche. Being valued at lower prices than the current reissue models undoubtedly lowered the barrier to entry for bidders, resulting in concentrated competition.
Cartier is known as the jeweler to kings, and its jewelry watches also enjoy high popularity in the market.
In 1901, Pierre Cartier customized jewelry for Britain’s Queen Alexandra, carving the outlines of fruits, leaves, and flowers into gemstones to create bright, rich colors.
It was named “Tutti Frutti.” This style, featured in most jewelry-related books, is undoubtedly iconic and is an art jewelry piece that collectors worldwide have long sought. “Tutti Frutti” is primarily applied to bracelets and necklaces, as well as brooches and earrings, but examples crafted into wristwatches are rare.
At the Bonhams Hong Kong Watches & Clocks auction in November 2023, a Tutti Frutti watch set with sapphires and diamonds was offered. The estimated selling price at the time of listing was only 500,000 to 800,000 Hong Kong Dollars. However, it attracted attention as a unique piece.
