Editor’s Note
Berluti, the Parisian luxury menswear house, will see a change in leadership as CEO Antoine Arnault departs. He is set to be succeeded by Jean-Marc Mansvelt, currently CEO of Chaumet, according to industry reports.
Antoine Arnault, the CEO who transformed the men’s bespoke footwear brand Berluti into a luxury menswear brand, is leaving the Parisian fashion house. According to documents obtained by WWD, Jean-Marc Mansvelt, CEO of the high jewelry brand Chaumet, is expected to succeed him starting January next year.
This resignation is expected to trigger a wave of changes within LVMH’s Watches and Jewelry division. It is reported that Charles Leung, CEO of the high jewelry brand FRED, will succeed Mansvelt as CEO of Chaumet.
Antoine stated, adding that Mansvelt’s extensive experience will be a key asset in driving Berluti’s development.
Antoine Arnault is a figure who holds multiple roles within the giant luxury group, including Chairman of Loro Piana, Head of Communication, Image, and Environment at LVMH, CEO of the holding company Christian Dior SE, and a member of the LVMH board. Data analysts estimate that since he became CEO of Berluti in 2011, revenue has increased approximately eightfold, approaching 300 million euros, with ready-to-wear accounting for about 20%. Berluti is known as a profitable brand, and its workforce has grown from about 200 in 2010 to over 1,000 employees today.
Antoine Arnault is also credited with modernizing Berluti, a traditional European men’s footwear brand. Founded in Paris in 1895 by Italian-born Alessandro, Berluti is also famous for its prestigious clientele, including Andy Warhol and Yves Saint Laurent. The ‘Alessandro’ shoe, named after the founder, is a bestseller for Berluti—a seamless coat shoe crafted from a single piece of leather.
Earlier this year at LVMH’s annual shareholder meeting, LVMH Chairman Bernard Arnault celebrated the performance of Berluti, led by his son, and even showed Berluti shoes to the audience. He recalled visiting the store before LVMH’s acquisition in 1993. He was invited by the maison’s head bootmaker, Olga Berluti, who, after a brief glance at Bernard’s foot, returned with a perfectly fitting shoe without any measurement. The famous anecdote is that he was so impressed that he soon acquired Berluti.
Antoine Arnault built a diverse career by leading Berluti’s then-underdeveloped jewelry line. At the time of acquisition, over 80% of Berluti’s sales came from footwear. In 2012, he expanded the Berluti line by acquiring the French heritage brand Arnys. That same year, at Berluti’s first runway show, a ready-to-wear collection designed by Artistic Director Alessandro Sartori was unveiled. Among the collection, loafers and sneakers that fused Arnys’s tradition of high tailoring with a casual style became iconic shoes for Berluti.
In 2011, Berluti had a market limited to Western Europe, China, and Japan. Antoine expanded the retail network to nearly triple, with 67 boutiques, exploring not only key cities for luxury goods but also emerging markets like Southeast Asia. In 2015, he also developed a new production site for footwear and leather goods in Ferrara, Italy, designed by Barthelemy & Grino Architects.
Recently, Berluti announced it would create the uniforms for the French team at the opening ceremony of the 2024 Paris Olympics—a contract that serves as Antoine’s final farewell gift.
Arnault left a message thanking the dedication of Berluti’s employees.
Meanwhile, Stéphane Bianchi, CEO of LVMH’s Watches and Jewelry division, announced the promotion of the two executives and thanked Mansvelt for his tremendous achievements over nine years at Chaumet.
It is estimated that during Mansvelt’s tenure, Chaumet’s sales grew more than fourfold, reaching approximately 450 million euros.
She also stated that Charles Leung, CEO of FRED, has established a unique position within LVMH’s jewelry brands, developing the retail network while exploring new markets and driving strong growth.
