【France】Do Synthetic Diamonds (Really) Compete with Natural Diamonds?

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Editor’s Note

This article examines the stated mission of the Natural Diamond Council as it positions itself to address the growing market for synthetic diamonds.

Des diamants bruts et polis issus de la mine aujourd'hui épuisée d'Argyle. 
The Stated Mission

The ambition is clear:

“The mission of the Natural Diamond Council is to promote the integrity values of the modern diamond industry and to inspire the consumer, to make them discover the specificities of natural diamonds and to protect them.”

There is no better interlocutor to inquire about diamonds, their strengths and weaknesses, in the face of the rising power of synthetic diamonds. We interviewed Raluca Anghel, Europe Director of the Natural Diamond Council.

Key Differences

The Point: What are the differences between a diamond and a synthetic diamond?
Raluca Anghel:

“Claims that it is impossible to differentiate a synthetic diamond from a natural diamond are simply not correct. In their rough state, the difference is glaring. It is once the polishing stage is done that the difference is slight. The formation of carbon crystals, i.e., diamonds, is different in nature, so their structure is distinct.”

Mass-produced in a few weeks, synthetic diamonds have specific characteristics and inclusions linked to rapid growth in an artificial environment, which can be detected using professional verification instruments. These instruments, based on various technologies, allow for the detection of differences between the structure of natural diamonds, formed underground billions of years ago, and that of synthetic diamonds, made in a few weeks in a laboratory.

Terminology and Regulation

The Point: Why prefer the terminology ‘synthetic diamonds’ over ‘cultured diamonds’? Anglo-Saxon countries speak of ‘lab grown diamonds’…
Raluca Anghel:

“To avoid confusion in the consumer’s mind. We are fortunate in France to have a law that is very envied internationally and is clear about designations. The decree of January 14, 2002 established a terminology to help the consumer differentiate the natural diamond from its copy (the synthetic diamond), and there is no other translation that does not lead to confusion.”

There are international standards and national regulations that must be respected when marketing these stones. Key points regarding standards: the word ‘diamond’ alone always designates a natural diamond. In general, only three terms can be used to designate a synthetic diamond: ‘diamant synthétique’, ‘diamant de synthèse’; outside France, the term ‘laboratory diamond’ can be used.

Ensuring Authenticity

The Point: How to distinguish natural diamonds from synthetic diamonds? In practice, how can a customer ensure they are dealing with natural diamonds?
Raluca Anghel:

“Diamond testing instruments are an integral part of procedures aimed at ensuring the integrity of the sector by preventing confusion between synthetic and natural diamonds. Certifications and the legal framework for the definition of diamonds also help customers and stakeholders throughout the supply chain to distinguish between synthetic and natural diamonds.”

Another way for consumers to ensure the authenticity of their diamond is to inquire about grading certificates, or certificates of authenticity (depending on the gemology laboratory). Factory-produced synthetic diamonds must always be clearly indicated as such.
The Natural Diamond Council established the Assure program in 2019. This program is a testing regime for diamond verification instruments available on the market. The Assure program evaluates their performance through rigorous tests using very demanding sample sets, and by collecting third-party approved feedback. Industry professionals can use the Assure directory of tested instruments to guide them in choosing the device that best meets their needs.

Environmental Claims

The Point: Why do you consider diamonds to be more ecological?
Raluca Anghel:

“The natural diamond industry has begun its decarbonization journey, in line with international climate goals. As part of their carbon emission reduction strategies, members of the Natural Diamond Council are launching new renewable energy development projects, often in partnership with developing countries where the supply of these energies is more difficult, carbon offset projects as well as investment programs in carbon sequestration.”

Industry players such as the diamond conglomerate De Beers have committed to carbon neutrality by 2030, and others like Rio Tinto aim for net zero emissions by 2050. Members of the Natural Diamond Council also participate in unique carbon sequestration programs using nature-based solutions, for example with kimberlite, the only natural rock where diamonds are found.

Un diamant brut.
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⏰ Published on: January 18, 2024