Editor’s Note
This article explores the origins of Bulgari, tracing its journey from a single shop founded by a Greek silversmith to its status as a Roman icon and global luxury powerhouse. It examines how the brand’s distinctive design philosophy, rooted in bold color and volume, has secured its prestige for over a century.
Bulgari is one of the world’s four major luxury jewelry brands, born from the legacy of Rome, the Eternal City. Its designs, distinguished by precious gemstones, unique color combinations, and a signature sense of volume, blend with the brand’s identity of pursuing innovation, creating immortal collections that are still beloved today. What is the secret behind Bulgari’s enduring prestige for over 140 years?
Founded in 1884 by Greek silversmith Sotirio Bulgari, who opened his first boutique on Rome’s Via Sistina, the brand initially sold Sotirio’s exquisite silver pieces inspired by ancient Roman architecture and mosaics. It flourished among travelers on the Grand Tour. In 1905, a second, historic flagship store opened at Via Dei Condotti 10, now Bulgari’s main store near the Spanish Steps.
After Sotirio’s passing, his sons Giorgio and Costantino took over, forging Bulgari’s unique identity by drawing inspiration from Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and 19th-century Roman goldsmithing traditions, moving away from the prevailing French style. Rome’s timeless beauty remains a constant source of inspiration. This Roman heritage is evident in the brand’s logo, which uses the ancient Roman ‘V’ to spell ‘BVLGARI’, clearly stating its identity lies in Rome.
By the mid-1950s, Bulgari began showcasing jewelry with harmonious combinations of precious colored gemstones. It introduced its signature style by setting diverse gemstones in gold using the ‘cabochon’ polishing technique.
The 1950s and 60s marked Italy’s glamorous ‘Dolce Vita’ era. The Bulgari boutique on Via Condotti became a meeting place for film stars and socialites like Elizabeth Taylor, Audrey Hepburn, and Grace Kelly. Their wearing of Bulgari jewelry naturally spread the brand’s fame worldwide.
Bulgari products have appeared in over 40 films and on countless red carpets, earning the brand the title ‘Jeweler of the Stars,’ beloved by legends from Sophia Loren to modern muses like Anne Hathaway.
Bulgari’s High Jewelry collections are exceptional artworks defined by vivid gemstone colors and brilliance. A key reason High Jewelry is considered Bulgari’s essence is its unparalleled use of color, creating unprecedented harmonies and a creative Italian style.
The jewelry craftsmanship is also deeply influenced by Italian culture. The signature cabochon cut, resembling Rome’s monumental domes, emphasizes elegant curves. Despite being a bold cut that removes significant material, Bulgari fearlessly applies it even to extremely valuable colored gemstones.
Bulgari’s High Jewelry is also highly popular in the auction market. For instance, the Serpenti collection has seen its estimated value rise over 75% in recent years. In 2011, actress Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari collection sold for a record 158 billion won at a Christie’s New York private auction.
Building on its jewelry fame, Bulgari entered watchmaking in 1975, achieving immediate success. Watches became a core business, leading to the 1980 establishment of Bvlgari Time in Switzerland. Over the following decade, it achieved vertical integration, becoming a true manufacture. The brand expanded into perfumes (1993), accessories (1996), and hotels & resorts (2001).
In 2011, Bulgari joined the LVMH group. Over 140 years, it has grown from a Roman high jewelry brand into a global luxury enterprise offering diverse products and services.
Furthermore, Bulgari demonstrates its commitment to social and environmental responsibility through numerous charitable partnerships, believing in innovating the present for a sustainable future.
The combination of artistic craftsmanship and modern design, inspired by Rome’s timeless history, along with a focus on environmental and sustainable innovation, is why the Roman high jeweler Bulgari’s brand value endures.
1. **Bulgari’s Eternal Icon | SERPENTI**
Introduced in the 1940s, the ‘Serpenti’ (Italian for snake) collection symbolizes abundance, wisdom, rebirth, and immortality. Made with densely linked coil forms inspired by snake scales, its flexible design offers exceptional comfort.
2. **Capturing the Dialogue Between Bulgari and Rome | DIVAS’ DREAM**
Born from Bulgari’s deep relationships with divas since the Dolce Vita era, this collection celebrates their charm and beauty. It features graceful curves and various gemstones, with an iconic fan-shaped motif inspired by ancient floral decorations.
3. **Reinterpreting Rome | B.zero1**
Inspired by the Colosseum and launched in 1999 for the new millennium, the classic B.zero1 design has been reinterpreted in various styles. The ‘B.zero1 Rock’ collection, with its studded contrasts and double logo, expresses a bold spirit. Its modern, chic appeal makes it beloved by both men and women.
