【Lucerne, Swi】Gübelin, a Pioneer in Colored Gemstone Traceability

Editor’s Note

While many luxury brands now face mounting pressure to address sustainability and traceability, some houses have long made this their mission. As this article explores, Swiss jeweler Gübelin has pursued authenticity and transparency for over a century—a commitment that remains as relevant today as ever.

Gübelin, pionnier en traçabilité des pierres de couleur
A Century-Long Commitment to Authenticity

Due to concerns about sustainability and eco-responsibility, transparency and traceability are unavoidable challenges for all luxury companies, including watchmaking and jewelry. Many have recently jumped on the bandwagon, driven by increasing legal pressure. Others, rarer, have been concerned about it for a long time. Gübelin, the illustrious Swiss jeweler, has been delving into the subject for over a century. Raphael Gübelin, at the helm of the company since 2011, details the vision and achievements of the family business.
It all started exactly 170 years ago. In 1854, Gübelin was just a small watch and clock shop in Lucerne. But the brand quickly developed by introducing its first pieces of jewelry. From the beginning of the 20th century, as the industry experienced growth, the first synthetic stones appeared.

Gübelin, pionnier en traçabilité des pierres de couleur

This was the first signal for the Gübelin family that a stone authentication process was necessary. The company then began issuing certificates to guarantee the provenance of its own stones. From the early 1920s, the company opened its first jewelry workshop and a small gemology laboratory. In 1923, it created the Gem Lab to ensure the authenticity of stones set on their jewelry… a function the laboratory still fulfills today, a century later.

A Pioneering Vision Rooted in Family Values

Raphael Gübelin, who represents the sixth generation at the head of the company, explains:

Raphael Gübelin représente la sixième génération à la tête du groupe Gübelin. Il en est le CEO depuis 2011.
“It was truly a pioneering vision, which stemmed from the fundamental values of our family and our passion for stones. My great-uncle, Eduard Josef Gübelin, was an accomplished gemologist and scientist. He discovered that the complex patterns inside stones could be identified in other stones from the same mine. This laid the foundation for moving towards precise identification and authentication of colored stones, culminating in a process that can reveal the origin and authenticity of stones, and even the various treatments they have undergone. From the beginning, it was about authenticity and transparency to build trust.”
Innovating Traceability: From Country to Mine

Gübelin did not rest on its laurels and has always sought to improve its methods and processes. Raphael Gübelin continues:

Collection de pierres de couleurs de référence de Gem Lab pour Gübelin, toutes identifiables à leur mine respective
“For example, we could identify which country a ruby came from, but not exactly which mine or when it was extracted. Add to that all the growing eco-responsibility considerations, and we began to think about how to trace stones directly from the mine. This is how, as early as 2017, the Provenance Proof structure was born, along with our ‘physical tracers’. We worked with a spin-off from ETH Zurich (Swiss Federal Institute of Technology Zurich) and developed a unique synthetic DNA tracer that can be ‘inserted’ into the stone directly at the mine. This becomes a unique, immediately identifiable tracer.”
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⏰ Published on: February 01, 2024