Editor’s Note
This article reflects on the enduring allure of natural pearls, witnessed firsthand at a prestigious exhibition in Qatar. It highlights a surprising modern abundance of these rare gems and explores their deep historical roots in the Persian Gulf region.
The shock I felt when visiting the ‘Doha Jewellery & Watches Exhibition’ in Qatar last February is still vivid. Natural pearls, which were said to have almost disappeared from the world, were surprisingly gathered in one place, captivating visitors with their rare presence. Utilizing the location’s identity as the Persian Gulf, the historical origin of pearls, a demonstration of traditional pearl jewelry making unfolded in the central aisle, and exhibition halls including Tiffany showcased natural pearl collections rarely seen.
I witnessed the subtle luster, crafted by the quiet sea over time, still capturing people’s gaze. The rarity of natural pearls has created legendary tales since ancient times. The most famous anecdote is about Egypt’s Queen Cleopatra. According to legend, she wagered a bet during a banquet with Marcus Antonius by dissolving a valuable pearl from her ear in vinegar and drinking it. This pearl was worth 10 million sestertii at the time, equivalent to the amount 1,000 Roman citizen households could live on for a year. Regardless of its authenticity, this bold anecdote has represented the mysterious charm and value of pearls for centuries. However, natural pearls, like the treasure in that legend, are now almost impossible to find.
Most pearls seen in jewelry stores today are cultivated by human hands. In the early 20th century, Japan’s Mikimoto Kokichi commercialized cultured pearl technology, and in the 1920s, pearls with more consistent sizes and colors began full-scale production, completely changing the market landscape. In contrast, natural pearls are formed entirely within the flow of nature. They are born through a process repeated over years of enveloping a small grain of sand or parasite that accidentally enters the oyster, a phenomenon that occurs with a slim probability of one in ten thousand. Through this long formation process and unpredictable natural providence, natural pearls possess different colors and lusters, radiating unique individuality. Meanwhile, cultured pearls are made by artificially inserting a nucleus into an oyster to induce the formation of nacre. Thanks to this, pearls of consistent size and shape can be produced efficiently, allowing the noble beauty of pearls, once enjoyed only by a privileged few, to reach the masses. Natural pearls are loved by pearl enthusiasts for their rarity and uniqueness crafted by nature, while cultured pearls are loved for their accessibility and uniform quality.
Bahrain, a small island nation in the Persian Gulf, remains one of the few exceptional places preserving the tradition of natural pearls. Even now, a century after cultured pearls have dominated the global market, Bahrain implements a strong protection policy that legally prohibits cultured pearl production and recognizes only pearls harvested from the sea using traditional methods. The waters around Bahrain possess optimal natural conditions for natural pearl growth. In this region, a phenomenon occurs where freshwater flows into the sea, creating a unique salinity balance. Subtle changes in water quality positively affect the texture and luster of the nacre formed inside the oyster, giving birth to pearls of special quality rarely found elsewhere. Until the 19th century, Bahrain was the world’s most important natural pearl producer. Before oil was discovered, Bahrain’s economy was driven by the pearl industry, and it was the very life and culture of the people. Thousands of ships gathered at the port, and divers, wearing wooden nose clips, plunged into the sea to search for oysters.
Today, in Bahrain, unlike the large-scale industry of the past, only a very limited quantity of natural pearls can be obtained. A small number of traditional divers adhere to methods passed down through generations, harvesting a small amount of natural pearls each year. They dive to depths of 10-20 meters without oxygen tanks, manually retrieving oysters. In practice, the symbolic meaning of preserving Bahrain’s cultural and historical heritage is greater than economic reasons. Bahrain has strict quality standards and an identification system to maintain the reputation and credibility of natural pearls. Experts identify natural pearls through scientific verification and issue official documents certifying their authenticity. This certification plays a crucial role when the extremely limited quantity of Bahraini natural pearls, which mainly enter the market through auctions or specific jewelers, is traded in the collector’s market.
Completing a single strand of natural pearl necklace requires an extremely long time. Collecting pearls that harmonize in size, color, and luster alone can take years, sometimes even decades. This delicate work requires the discerning eye and skill of an artisan to select pearls of similar size and hue and weave them into a connected story. From an environmental perspective, natural pearls also possess value distinct from other gemstones. While most gemstones require mining development and refining processes, pearls are naturally formed within nature’s cycle. Pearl harvesting has minimal impact on the marine ecosystem and preserves its beauty intact without complex processing. This sustainable method, which respects the ocean’s ecosystem, is increasingly recognized for its shining value in the modern luxury industry. In recent years, gemstones with high rarity have gained attention as investment targets. Like high-quality large diamonds or untreated rubies and sapphires, natural pearls have also established themselves as important investment assets for luxury collectors. Particularly, Bahraini natural pearls are on a steady upward trend in value due to their limited supply and difficulty in obtaining on the market.
In the luxury market, true rarity is becoming increasingly important. Unlike uniformly processed gemstones, natural pearls have their own individuality alive and become more charming over time. Natural pearls are also gemstones that connect the past and present. It is a special experience to be able to admire and own the heritage of pearls cherished by ancient royalty and passed down through European royal families even today. If you ever discover natural pearls in a museum, think of the ocean’s time held within that single pearl. While diamonds or colored stones emit brilliant light and color in an instant, pearls have held the long flow of time with their subtle luster. That is the essential beauty held within natural pearls.
