Editor’s Note
This article previews the key trends and standout models from the 2025 Watches & Wonders exhibition in Geneva, where leading brands unveiled their latest innovations in craftsmanship and design.
On the occasion of the Watches & Wonders exhibition, major renowned manufacturers and independent watchmakers present their new releases.
By Fabrice Léonard
April 15, 2025
The major annual global watchmaking event has just concluded in Geneva, Switzerland. The big names of “Swiss Made” unveil unprecedented models that compete in innovation, preciousness, and ingenuity. Between unique creations and pieces with multiple complications, unique models with softened sporty lines and jewel watches set with precious stones, bluish hues and solar reflections of gold, here are the timepieces that will occupy a prime place in the hearts of enthusiasts and collectors of fine mechanics.
Each year, a new color is honored. This year, it’s blue and all its shades (azure, turquoise, cobalt, navy…) that color classic, feminine, retro, complicated, or more sporty timepieces.
- Matte blue ceramic J12 model, Chanel Horlogerie.
- Platinum Escale model, grand feu enamel, leather strap, Louis Vuitton Horlogerie.
- Yellow gold Arceau Le Temps Suspendu model, alligator strap, Hermès.
- Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore chrono model, Audemars Piguet.
- Steel Luminor Marina model, alligator strap, Panerai.
- Ceramic Pilot Big Date Flyback model, Cordura strap, 160th anniversary edition, Zenith.
Maisons are increasingly feminizing their collections. They compete in imagination and creativity by presenting jewelry that tells time and ultra-precious timepieces, set or paved with diamonds, sapphires, rubies, or rare emeralds.
- Yellow gold Tressage model, polished leather strap, Cartier.
- Yellow gold Cadenas model, diamonds, blue sapphires, Van Cleef & Arpels.
- Ethical rose gold, diamonds, malachite, alligator strap, L’Heure du Diamant collection, Chopard.
- White gold Wild Treasures model, diamonds, rubies, Marvelous collection, Harry Winston.
- White gold Tiffany Eternity model, diamonds, Tiffany & Co.
- White gold Serpenti Aeterna model, diamonds, Bvlgari.
Whether yellow or rose, the most precious of materials continues to inspire a myriad of models this year. Watch manufacturers imagine pieces crafted in gold, including cases and bracelets.
- Honeygold Odysseus model, honey-colored gold, A. Lange & Söhne.
- Bronze gold Seamaster Diver 300m model, Omega.
- Rose gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds model, Jaeger-LeCoultre.
- Red gold Ingenieur Automatic model, IWC.
- Rose gold Cubitus model, Patek Philippe.
- Yellow gold Sixtie model, Piaget.
Engraved, sculpted, decorated, lacquered, or painted, watch dials receive special attention from watchmakers.
- Grey Rolesor Oyster Perpetual Land-Dweller model with honeycomb-patterned dial, Rolex.
- Rose gold Patrimony retrograde moon phase date model with dial decorated with a Maltese cross-inspired motif, Vacheron Constantin.
- Brilliant Hard Titanium Tokyo Lion Tentagraph model, textured dial, Sport Collection line, Grand Seiko.
From the strap to the case, including the dial, buckle, and even the hands, black, intense gray, or midnight blue color new models for a “phantom” aesthetic.
- Ceramic and carbon Big Bang All Black model, anniversary collection, Hublot.
- Ceramic BR03 Skeleton model, Bell & Ross.
- Aged steel Iced Sea model, rubber strap, Montblanc.
- Titanium Concorde model, Pequignet.
Whether accompanying mountain ascents, scuba diving, car rallies, or sailing outings, sporty models advocate a certain elegance with reduced case dimensions and more sober dials.
- Steel, rose gold Chiffre Rouge chrono model, crocodile strap, Dior Horlogerie.
- Carbon RM 43-01 Ferrari Tourbillon Split-Seconds Chronograph model, Richard Mille.
- Bioceramic Moonswatch 1965 chronograph model, Swatch x Omega.
- Recycled titanium and Nylo-Foil Diver Air model, Ulysse Nardin.
- Formula 1 models, Solargraph technology in steel or rubber, Tag Heuer.
