Editor’s Note
This article explores a bold new trend in fine jewelry, where designers are creating miniature anatomical sculptures. From pregnant curves to shapely legs, these pieces celebrate the human form in unexpected and audacious ways.
It takes audacity to undress the body. Pregnant curves, buttocks, and shapely legs… Designers are exploring anatomy, giving birth to jewelry that stands out in the hushed world of fine jewelry. Driven by the same inventive spirit, they create miniature anatomical sculptures.
It was Elsa Schiaparelli who explored this avant-garde phenomenon. As early as the 1930s, she interpreted parts of the human body through her surreal and subversive approach.
explained Daniel Roseberry. The genius at the helm of the house’s artistic direction perpetuates the founder’s legacy by analyzing all the concepts that constitute the house’s history. Thus, he elevates anatomy to majesty, redefining the contours of the body, notably through gold creations that have become his signature:
It is impossible to discuss anatomical jewelry without mentioning the Schiaparelli Lung Necklace, worn by Bella Hadid on the red carpet at the 2021 Cannes Film Festival. This creation, adorned with hundreds of rhinestones, was imagined for the Fall-Winter 2021-2022 haute couture collection and crafted by Marine Billet, the one who brings the sketches of creative director Daniel Roseberry to life.
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she explains. After leafing through anatomy books and studying how lungs function to align with the house’s surreal universe, she locked herself in her workshop. No less than 200 hours of work and three dedicated people were required to design this jewel.
When she is not creating the silhouettes imagined by the designer, Marine Billet gives life to the creations of her own brand, Incarmen. This daughter of doctors aptly named it, evoking jewelry that one embodies. She draws her inspiration from everyday life. She constantly marvels at its mundane fragments, which she seeks to transform and sublimate into objects conducive to surprise.
she explains. She crystallizes each part of the body through creations in gilded brass designed like a second skin.
she adds.
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A provocative spirit combined with a love for sculpture: that’s what pushed Anissa Kermiche to leave her job as an engineer at a major consulting firm to create her own jewelry brand. Although she has put it on pause for some time, the Franco-Algerian designer stood out in a rapidly changing field thanks to bold creations, conceived as an ode to the female body.
With her Hotlips ring, designed in 1998, Solange Azagury-Partridge gives the red mouth its full power. Sensual, impertinent, and decidedly pop, this creation has become a true fashion manifesto.
confides the British designer, whose disruptive style has marked the industry. Year after year, the jewel slips into magazine pages and appears on the fingers of cool girls. A success that earned it a place in the permanent collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum in London.
Her creations emanate a unique point of view. Ioanna Eleftheriou, alias Ioanna Liberta, addresses an audience sensitive to her visual and tactile poetry. At the heart of her workshop nestled in Athens, she crafts intimate and narrative jewelry, exploring feminine curves marked by their life stories.
The French designer is a pure talent who imposes herself in the world of jewelry with a refreshing spontaneity. But what especially distinguishes her is her insatiable thirst for freedom. Going against the grain of her peers, it is not the female body that she interprets, but rather that of men, with her Dick in a Box ring.
