Editor’s Note
Bvlgari’s largest-ever exhibition in Japan showcases the brand’s artistic heritage through a dazzling display of jewelry and design, blending Italian craftsmanship with global cultural influences.
The “BVLGARI KALEIDOS” exhibition opened in mid-September (running until December 15 this year) at the National Art Center, Tokyo (NACT). The event was attended by Jang Wonyoung, Kim Ji-won, Tomohisa Yamashita, Ren Meguro, Kento Nakajima, Koyuki, Hikari Mori, EXILE AKIRA, among others. This marks the brand’s largest exhibition ever held in Japan and the first jewelry event to receive support from the Italian Embassy in Japan.
The exhibition name “Kaleidos” originates from the Greek words ‘kalos’ (beauty) and ‘eidos’ (form), symbolizing a journey where aesthetics and creativity shine together. The exhibition features nearly 350 pieces from Bvlgari’s Heritage Collection and significant private collections, spanning from the brand’s founding era to contemporary times.
— Jean-Christophe Babin, Global CEO of Bvlgari
Beyond jewelry, the exhibition’s artistic content is a major highlight. The spatial design was a collaboration between Bvlgari, Japanese SANAA studio founders Kazuyo Sejima and Ryue Nishizawa, and the Italian studio Formafantasma. They used elegant curves, translucent materials, and layered colors to unfold Bvlgari’s profound cultural heritage. The exhibition also invited three contemporary female artists—Lara Favaretto, Mariko Mori, and Akiko Nakayama—to create works interpreting their insights on color.
The exhibition is divided into three immersive, interconnected chapters that gradually unveil Bvlgari’s essence of color.
— Gislan Aucremanne, Heritage Curatorial Director of Bvlgari
Historically, founder Sotirio Bulgari’s early designs already revealed a love for color. By the 20th century, the brand formally began to embrace color wholeheartedly. In the early 1900s, traditional high jewelry was still dominated by platinum and monochromatic tones. After WWII, Italy became a hub for color innovation. In the 1950s, Bvlgari pioneered the combination of sapphires, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds with gold, creating bold and vibrant contrasts. Simultaneously, valuing their natural hues and aesthetic potential, Bvlgari boldly incorporated gemstones once considered ‘semi-precious,’ such as amethyst, citrine, and turquoise. Paired with the brand’s signature cabochon cut, this maximized the intensity of rich colors.
This chapter explores color effects from a scientific perspective, using classic jewelry pieces to showcase the visual tension of tonal blends.
Highlight Piece 1: A citrine and diamond bracelet, whose creation dates back to around 1940, crafted in gold and platinum, making its first appearance outside Italy. The gemstones on the bracelet radiate multi-layered orange-gold hues, reminiscent of a Roman sunset. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Citrine and Diamond Bracelet, c. 1940)
Highlight Piece 2: A platinum bracelet (c. 1954) set with cabochon-cut sapphires and rubies, accented with dazzling diamonds, presenting the brand’s iconic red-blue color contrast. The classic cabochon cut highlights the depth and luster of the gemstones. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Sapphire, Ruby and Diamond Bracelet, c. 1954-1955)
Highlight Piece 3: A necklace and earring set that boldly combines emeralds, amethysts, turquoise, and diamonds, embodying Bvlgari’s boundless creativity with color. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Emerald, Amethyst, Turquoise and Diamond Necklace, c. 1968)
This chapter delves into the cultural meanings and emotional symbolism of colors, exploring how meaning and emotion are conveyed through color.
Highlight Piece 4: Key exhibits include the brand’s rare jade jewelry and the legendary “Seven Wonders” platinum necklace (c. 1961). This piece is set with seven substantial emeralds, highlighted by diamonds. It was once worn by Italian screen legends Monica Vitti and Gina Lollobrigida and was part of the Invernizzi family’s private collection. After its last public display in Tokyo a decade ago, it has now returned to the Bvlgari Heritage Collection and is featured in this exhibition. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Seven Wonders Emerald and Diamond Necklace, c. 1961)
This chapter focuses on how Bvlgari uses color to create plays of light and shadow, particularly with reflective metals like gold and silver.
Highlight Piece 5: A focal point is a long gold necklace created in 1969, which can be flexibly transformed into a bracelet. Set with amethysts, turquoise, citrines, rubies, emeralds, and diamonds, its colorful array embodies Bvlgari’s abundant use of color and rich narrative, echoing the kaleidoscopic theme of the exhibition. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Multigem and Diamond Necklace, c. 1969)
Highlight Piece 6: Another highlight is a Serpenti evening bag created around 1978, crafted with three-color metal, silk thread, and diamond pavé, witnessing the legendary success of Bvlgari’s “Melone” bag style. It combines gold, rose gold, and a rare metal in a blue-green hue called “acqua di mare,” fully showcasing Bvlgari’s卓越 craftsmanship and unique aesthetic in gold artistry. (BVLGARI Heritage Collection Serpenti Melon Evening Bag, c. 1978)