Defining Ethical Jewelry

The jewelry industry, like many others, has its dark side. The 2006 film Blood Diamond, starring Leonardo DiCaprio, sounded an alarm for the public. The film realistically depicted the brutal reality of indigenous labor exploitation and civil war in the world’s largest diamond-producing region. Diamonds mined under such conditions were labeled ‘blood diamonds,’ strongly condemning the reality that taints the jewelry industry. This story, based on true events, imprinted the severity of the issue globally. Not only diamonds, a primary material in jewelry, but also the mining and polishing of various gemstones, along with the associated environmental and labor issues, have long been subjects of controversy. Gold has also faced persistent questions regarding transparency and traceability in its mining and distribution processes. To rectify this, changes are gradually taking place across the global jewelry industry. Within this positive trend, consumers also need to face reality and engage in wise, ethical consumption. Consumer interest translates into benefits for producers and sellers making genuine efforts, ultimately becoming the driving force that guides the jewelry industry onto the right path. This is also the power that opens a better future for all of us. Last year, luxury jewelry brands accounted for 13-14% of the global jewelry market, valued at approximately $365 billion, and over 30% in the domestic market. So, how are today’s jewelry maisons confronting this underside of the industry? Through each brand’s unique philosophy and case studies, we examine how the contemporary jewelry industry is responding to the tide of change.

In April, Bvlgari completed the expansion of its large-scale production hub, ‘Manifattura Bvlgari,’ centered on sustainability. Located in Valenza, this facility boasts the largest scale for a single brand and is considered a model case for achieving a carbon-neutral production environment by actively utilizing renewable energy from its architectural structure to overall operations. Designed based on energy efficiency principles, it minimizes environmental impact by applying eco-friendly elements throughout the system. Bvlgari plans to hire over 500 new artisans by 2029, providing opportunities for future generations and strengthening production capacity. Furthermore, to pass on craftsmanship, it established the public educational institution ‘Scuola Bvlgari,’ taking on the role of transmitting the goldsmithing tradition to the next generation. Pomellato combines innovative technology with the ancient lost-wax casting method inherited from Egypt to present unique products. It has made preserving and developing its over 50-year goldsmithing tradition a core sustainability strategy, sponsoring and responsibly inheriting it. Particularly through educational collaboration with the Milan-based Galdus Goldsmith Academy, it shares knowledge with designers and goldsmiths, opening the future of craftsmanship.

Tiffany & Co. has established strict production standards based on the principle of using ethical diamonds. Diamond roughs are selected only from mines that meet human rights protection and soil conservation standards, undergoing cutting and polishing processes at Tiffany workshops in Belgium, Botswana, Mauritius, and Thailand. It also uses only diamonds polished by reliable suppliers complying with ethical mining and environmental standards. Through this process, Tiffany became the first global luxury jewelry brand to transparently disclose the entire process, from grading and quality control to setting, for diamonds over 0.18 carats. Boucheron has used 100% traceable ‘responsible gold’ since its 2020 collections, achieving traceability and detailed information disclosure for all stages, not only for gold but also for diamonds. It particularly utilizes cutting-edge devices to ensure data-based transparency, reducing errors and room for subjective interpretation that may arise from human intervention. Boucheron aims to achieve 100% traceability for all key raw materials by 2025. Chaumet used 100% traceable sustainable gold not only for the pendant of its ‘Bee My Love’ pendant but also for the chain and clasp. It thoroughly verifies every single gram of gold from the mining stage to completion, gradually expanding responsible sourcing principles through collaboration with reliable partners. Graff practices responsible diamond mining based on the Kimberley Process and sources roughs from verified suppliers. It applies a code of conduct prohibiting forced labor in the business supply chain across the group, establishing an ethical and responsible corporate culture. Bvlgari set the industry’s highest standard as the world’s first high jeweler to use only RJC CoC (Responsible Jewellery Council Chain of Custody) certified gold for all products since 2022. Tasaki also participates in realizing ethical value by insisting on only using conflict-free diamond roughs and roughs whose origin is clearly proven by suppliers. Chopard has used 100% ethical gold for all jewelry and watches since 2018. In this year’s high jewelry collection ‘Insofu,’ it introduced the Emerald Paternity Test, using emeralds with eternally guaranteed provenance, once again defining the future of sustainable high-end jewelry.

Chaumet, which has taken nature as the source of its design, continues its eco-friendly activities to repay the source of its inspiration. It transports boutique interior props by ship instead of air and installs smart meters and energy-saving lighting in all stores to meticulously manage carbon emissions. It also joined the Swiss Better Gold Association (SBGA) to support the sustainable development of small-scale mines. Chaumet’s philosophy, centered on people and nature, shines even brighter through these detailed changes. Pomellato bases its brand’s credibility and reputation on sustainability, focusing on reducing the environmental impact of corporate activities. It shares EP&L (Environmental Profit & Loss) culture with all suppliers and actively introduces production methods to reduce energy consumption. Tasaki practices pearl cultivation that does not harm nature. At its own Japanese cultivation farms, it grows pearls in clean, nutrient-rich seawater, and after gemstone mining, it plants trees to contribute to forest restoration. It responsibly handles dust generated during the gem polishing process, continuing its eco-friendly management. Bvlgari, centered around Manifattura Bvlgari, carries out activities for the local ecosystem and community. It created a forest with native species on an 8,000㎡ site and prepared rest areas for employees and residents. Furthermore, it collaborates with local beekeepers to install beehives, contributing to biodiversity recovery. Chopard plans to sponsor ‘Elephant Family,’ which works to preserve wild elephant habitats and spread coexistence culture in local communities, with a portion of the profits from its 2025 high jewelry collection, Insofu.

Boucheron demonstrated creativity by combining new materials other than gemstones to redefine the jewelry case. Under the declaration “No pack is the new pack,” it produced cases using only recyclable aluminum and felt and wool materials assembled without adhesive. Recognizing the limitations of existing cases being large, heavy, and difficult to recycle due to the use of various materials, it collaborated with experts to present an eco-friendly alternative that also possesses beauty as an objet. Through this, it continues its efforts to break traditional conventions and propose a responsible future. Tiffany’s iconic blue box also reflects sustainability. Made for over a decade with Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) certified materials and recycled paper, it embodies the brand’s commitment to environmental protection.

Fred embodies the spirit of sports in jewelry, maintaining partnerships with the French, Japanese, and East Asian Special Olympics organizations for global harmony. Its signature design, the Force 10 bracelet, embodies the spirit of endurance and teamwork, and the hashtag #gobeyond on the steel buckle symbolizes the courage and challenge of athletes. Graff established the ‘Graff Leadership Centre’ in Leribe, providing basic education, psychosocial support, and leadership training programs for local children, youth, and the elderly. Covering gender equality and HIV/AIDS education, it serves as a social hub that helps local residents become self-reliant and transforms lives. Bvlgari operates a strict employee health and safety system according to rigorous certification standards, providing practical benefits through various welfare programs. Representative examples include regular health checkups, summer camps for children, and programs encouraging the use of eco-friendly transportation. Tiffany hires local talent at its workshops in Belgium, Botswana, Mauritius, and Thailand, contributing to local economic development. Notably, 94% of employees at its Hai Duong facility in Vietnam are local women. Tiffany considers them its greatest asset and strives to maintain a safe and clean working environment. Pomellato expands its social responsibility through educational support for passing on artisan skills. By collaborating with the Galdus Goldsmith Academy in Milan to transmit artisan skills to future generations, it extends the value of social contribution throughout the brand.

Thus, many maisons are confronting the dark side of the jewelry industry in their own ways and making continuous efforts for ethical improvement. They practice ethical responsibility at all stages, from selecting mines for sourcing main materials to mining and distribution, with environmental protection, responsible supply chain building, and sustainability as core values. These efforts meticulously expand to encompass the environment, people, technology, energy, consumer experience, purchase journey, and usage stage. Although innovative change may not be easy within a long history and tradition, we hope that jewelry maisons, through deep contemplation and continuous practice, become the shining gems that illuminate the industry’s dark side.