Editor’s Note
This article introduces Van Cleef & Arpels’ new Flowerlace and Fleurs d’Hawaï collections, both celebrating the maison’s signature floral motifs through distinct yet harmonious interpretations in precious materials.
Van Cleef & Arpels, one of the biggest names in jewelry, presents two new collections: Flowerlace and Fleurs d’Hawaï. Both are inspired by flowers, a recurring motif of the Richemont Group’s house. However, flowers and petals are interpreted differently in the two jewelry lines, yet they share a common style.
These pieces are inspired by the silhouette of an openwork floral crown in yellow gold, the color of the sun, and diamonds. The petals and lines framing the elegantly round shape of the flower recall the flowing form of a ribbon and refer to another source of inspiration for Van Cleef & Arpels: fashion.
The collection comprises five creations: a ring, a between-the-finger ring, a pair of earrings, a necklace with a pendant, and a brooch with a pendant. The latter can be worn in two different ways. The slightly tilted petals give the ensemble more volume, while the pistil is adorned with gold beads and diamonds of varying sizes. This creates a slightly asymmetrical composition that expresses the idea of nature in motion. The diamonds, selected according to the strictest criteria (from D to F for color and from IF to VVS for clarity), are set by the gem-setter using various techniques.
The creations recall two emblematic motifs of Van Cleef & Arpels: the silhouette brooches created by the house in the late 1930s and the eponymous high jewelry collection from 2007.
This line is inspired by the colors of a vibrant garden. Like freshly bloomed flowers, the jewelry pieces and watches combine gemstone petals, diamond pistils, and gold leaves into radiant creations with generously proportioned floral crowns, reminiscent of lush, sun-drenched nature.
In addition to rose, yellow, and white gold, five types of gemstones are used for the rings, necklaces, and watches of the Fleurs d’Hawaï collection: yellow-orange citrine, amethyst, rhodolite, aquamarine, and peridot. The pear-shaped gemstones form a floral crown whose petals rise upwards, lending lightness and vitality to the creation. The openwork structure of the gold setting allows light to pass through the gemstones, highlighting their colors. The slightly raised pistil adds extra movement to the piece. At its center, seven diamonds sparkle in harmony, surrounded by gold beads whose roundness recalls claws and which have been handcrafted into spherical shapes. A delicately curved leaf of gold with a polished surface gives the composition volume and a distinctive asymmetry.
The three Fleurs d’Hawaï Secret watches captivate with a floral crown of twelve matching pear-shaped gemstones. The floral crown opens to reveal a white mother-of-pearl dial framed by round-cut diamonds. A pear-cut diamond at 12 o’clock illuminates the ensemble. The entire timepiece is concealed by a rotating element that expresses the Maison’s penchant for mystery. The flower is detachable and can be worn as a bracelet, brooch, or pendant. Citrine and yellow gold, rhodolite and rose gold, aquamarine and white gold come together on the satin bracelet that accompanies each watch.
The floral bouquets follow in the footsteps of an emblematic creation by Van Cleef & Arpels: the Passe-Partout jewel patented in 1938. A jewelry masterpiece, often characterized by colorful, generous floral motifs, attached to a golden Tubogas chain. During this period, other creations combining flowers and colored gemstones also emerged, including the Hawaii jewels, where ruby, sapphire, and diamond flowers adorned rings, brooches, and earrings.
