【Antwerp, Bel】In Antwerp, Diamond Traders Have the Blues: “The Belgian State Treats Us Like Criminals, the Entire Luxury Industry Is Leaving”

Editor’s Note

This dispatch from Antwerp’s historic diamond district captures a moment of profound crisis for a traditional industry. The personal account of a longtime jeweler facing a “catastrophic” downturn speaks to broader economic pressures and a potentially generational shift.

Anvers - Antwerp : Quartier des diamantaires - Rijfstraat - Hoveniersstraat - schupstraat - diamants - taille - vente (JC Guillaume)
“Business is dead”

Menashe shrugs his shoulders. The jeweler has been located on Pelikaanstraat, on the edge of Antwerp’s diamond district, for over thirty years. In his experience as a merchant, he has never lived through a situation as “catastrophic.”

“We have never sold so little,” sighs the man in his sixties. “Every month, it gets worse and worse. I will soon be retired, but my children will certainly not take over the shop.”

Menashe offers significant discounts of up to 70% on his diamond-adorned rings. “But they don’t sell,” he laments.

A Perfect Storm in Antwerp
Anvers - Antwerp : Quartier des diamantaires - Rijfstraat - Hoveniersstraat - schupstraat - diamants - taille - vente (JC Guillaume)

The sun shines on the Antwerp metropolis, and on this Valentine’s Day, several curious onlookers crowd in front of the countless shops. “Diamonds are forever, like love,” they have been promised. Enough to entice them to spend thousands of euros on a precious stone for their chosen one. “That’s a slogan from the 1940s. It doesn’t resonate with many people anymore,” relates a knowledgeable local.

“The sector forgot to reinvent itself. Many diamond traders are leaving Antwerp. Before, they were among the richest people in the world. Today, you have to do another job if you want to make money.”

The diamond and Antwerp: the long love story, dating back nearly 150 years, seemed eternal. Until recently, 80% of the world’s rough diamonds passed through the city. But the last few years have been “terrible.” The National Bank of Belgium reports a 70% drop in gem imports to Antwerp since 2014. This collapse accelerated in the last two years with sanctions on Russian diamonds linked to the invasion of Ukraine. Note that these official figures are contested by the sector represented by the AWDC (Antwerp World Diamond Centre). Various diamond traders also told us that “everything is fine” in Antwerp.
But all the specialists consulted indicate the exact opposite.

“Antwerp is experiencing a perfect storm,” analyzes Hans Merket, a gemstone specialist for IPIS (International Peace Information Service). “Globally, the diamond sector is going through very difficult times, but the bill is double for the Flemish metropolis. It is the only trading center in the world that no longer accepts Russian diamonds. It is therefore losing large market shares to other diamond centers like Dubai, Tel Aviv, or Mumbai, which are less transparent.”
Anvers - Antwerp : Quartier des diamantaires - Rijfstraat - Hoveniersstraat - schupstraat - diamants - taille - vente (JC Guillaume)

The Belgians, however, long resisted implementing sanctions against Russia, the world’s leading diamond producer. We all remember the lesson given (“Peace is worth much more than diamonds”) by Ukrainian President Volodymyr Zelenskyy to Belgian parliamentarians. Finally, after tough discussions, the G7 countries and the European Union agreed on a system to boycott Russian diamonds while preserving Antwerp’s position.

“Apart from Europe, no G7 country has applied this sanction mechanism,” regrets Hans Merket. “The deal? No more Russian diamonds in Antwerp, but the implementation of a new traceability system over which the metropolis would have control. It was also a unique opportunity for Antwerp to have a quasi-exclusivity on the markets of G7 countries, representing nearly 75% of the global consumer market. But apart from Europe, no G7 country has applied this mechanism. This is very problematic, especially for the United States, the world’s largest consumer market for gems: over half of the polished diamonds worldwide are sold there. Donald Trump’s rise to power will certainly not improve things.”

Antwerp therefore feels betrayed and the scapegoat of these sanctions.

A Feudal and Closed System

This crisis seems to be affecting the entire diamond city, from the jeweler to the artisan goldsmith, to the rough diamond trader. It is difficult to understand how this separate little square kilometer, right next to the majestic Antwerp Central Station, functions. Each street seems to have its own codes, and many are wary of journalists.

Anvers - Antwerp : Quartier des diamantaires - Rijfstraat - Hoveniersstraat - schupstraat - diamants - taille - vente (JC Guillaume)
“It’s a feudal and closed system, controlled by large families,” explains a “former insider.”

The closer one gets to the heart of the district, where the various diamond exchanges are located, the more security systems appear and tongues become tied.

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⏰ Published on: February 21, 2025