Editor’s Note
Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders after a five-year absence signals a strategic shift. The brand once dismissed trade shows as outdated, but now embraces their evolution into public-facing, culturally integrated events aimed at wider engagement.
The decision by Audemars Piguet (AP) to once again be part of Watches & Wonders marks a turning point. As recently as 2019, the brand had declared trade shows “outdated,” as the focus at the time was heavily limited to specialist retailers and journalists. However, the concept has fundamentally changed since then: today, the show is increasingly opening up to the public, integrating cultural formats in the city of Geneva, and thus aiming for broader brand awareness.
For AP, the timing is strategically astute: 2026 marks the brand’s 150th anniversary. In addition to its booth at Palexpo, estimated to cost around 20 million CHF, AP will be present in the city center with a major exhibition. There, the historical system of Établissage will be honored – that cooperative network of artisans upon which the brand was built.
Economically, however, the return does not mean that Audemars Piguet is abandoning its strategy. The distribution model remains strictly focused on its own boutiques and so-called “AP Houses,” with no return to multi-brand retail. With currently 85 sales points worldwide and a revenue increase of 12 percent in the current year, AP feels validated. Nevertheless, its presence in Geneva shows that even a brand with the iconic appeal of the Royal Oak needs a strong platform to deepen brand perception and customer loyalty.
While AP returns with great fanfare, Montblanc is withdrawing. For the Richemont brand, which manufactures watches in addition to writing instruments, this is a clear signal: resources are apparently to be focused more on more profitable core segments and selective watchmaking. Montblanc has been consistently present in recent years but has not been able to profile itself to the same extent in perception against heavyweights like IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, or Cartier – also part of the Richemont portfolio.
In an environment where brand appearances at Watches & Wonders come with significant costs, the decision seems rational from an economic perspective. While Montblanc watches like the 1858 Geosphere or Heritage Chronométrie have a loyal collector base, they do not achieve the same market penetration as other Richemont brands. For industry insiders, the withdrawal primarily means one thing: the group is focusing on clear differentiation of its maisons, and Montblanc is to appear more selectively in the future.
With 66 participating brands, including new additions like Credor (Seiko Group), Sinn Spezialuhren, or Charles Girardier, Watches & Wonders 2026 is the largest edition in its history. The mix of traditional heavyweights (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Hermès) and independent manufacturers makes the show the most important industry meeting point.
For the specialist trade, this means: Watches & Wonders remains the central showcase for capturing trends, novelties, and brand strategies. While Swatch Group brands like Omega, Longines, or Breguet continue to stay away, the return of Audemars Piguet shows that the platform has become indispensable. Even for those brands that were supposedly strong enough to go it alone.
Participating Brands (Excerpt):
Rolex, Tudor
Patek Philippe
Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, Piaget, Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Panerai, A. Lange & Söhne
Chopard, Hermès, Chanel
Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Hublot, Zenith
Audemars Piguet (new)
Grand Seiko, Credor (Seiko Group)
Nomos Glashütte, Sinn Spezialuhren
Corum, Parmigiani Fleurier, Frederique Constant, H. Moser & Cie., Laurent Ferrier
Numerous independent manufacturers in the “Carré des Horlogers”
Not Represented:
Brands of the Swatch Group (including Omega, Longines, Breguet, Blancpain)
Breitling
Richard Mille
Montblanc (Richemont Group)
Bell & Ross, Hysek, Meistersinger, Speake Marin