【Paris, Franc】[Yoon Sung-won’s Jewelry Insight] JAR, The Modern Matisse Who Elevated Jewelry to Art

On April 28th, my steps were filled with excitement as I headed through Bangkok’s hot air to the Christie’s preview event. It was a preview for the highlight of the Geneva ‘Magnificent Jewels’ auction on May 14th, titled ‘A Bouquet Of Gems: A Superb Collection Of Jewels By JAR’. The moment when 21 pieces by the legendary Joel Arthur Rosenthal (JAR) gathered in one place was nothing short of the Super Bowl of the jewelry world.
I first encountered JAR’s work over a decade ago at a private gallery in New York. The dazzling diamond tulip brooch I saw then remains vivid in my memory. Whenever news broke of a JAR piece going to auction, I would rush to Geneva, New York, London, or Paris. With only 70-80 pieces created annually, his works are rare treasures in themselves. Upon entering the preview, my eyes were immediately drawn to the diamond ‘Apricot Blossom’ bracelet.

The 21 pieces in this collection were purchased by a single private collector in the early 2000s and 2010s, all making their debut on the auction market. Looking through a loupe at the gemstones’ color shifts with the angle of light and the delicate settings, I was once again in awe of JAR’s perfect craftsmanship.

At 7 Place Vendôme in Paris, an entrance with no sign or show window bears only three quietly engraved letters: ‘JAR’. Why do collectors from around the world pilgrimage to this place without flashy advertising or marketing? Born in New York in 1943, Rosenthal studied art history and philosophy at Harvard before opening this space with his partner Pierre Jeannet in 1977. His atelier is famously operated strictly by appointment and is known for rigorously ‘selecting’ clients. It is so exclusive that there is a waiting list, and legendary tales are told of even clients expressing willingness to spend millions being turned away. Every JAR piece is a unique creation, embodying his singular artistic vision. His dogmatic approach, faithful to his own aesthetic and creative intuition, has built unprecedented respect and status in the jewelry market. He expanded the boundaries of jewelry by adding a modern sensibility to traditional craftsmanship, making bold combinations of non-traditional materials like titanium and aluminum with high-grade gemstones his signature. His pavé setting technique, in particular, along with his original color combinations, became the essence symbolizing JAR. Another piece that was most impressive at this preview was a multi-gem chain necklace with brilliant colors.

JAR is a figure who brought innovation to modern jewelry history. He elevated jewelry into the realm of art and completely changed the paradigm of design through experimental combinations of diverse materials and bold use of color. The exquisite craftsmanship of his nature-inspired works raised the standard for modern jewelry making, and through limited production and strict client selection, he showed that the essence of luxury lies in scarcity and craftsmanship. Not wanting to miss a rare JAR exhibition, I visited the JAR retrospective at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 2013. This event, displaying over 400 works, was a historic moment when the world officially recognized him as a ‘jewelry artist’. The set of 7 connectable bracelets into a necklace I saw at this preview was also a piece I first encountered at that exhibition.

Elizabeth Taylor, who received a JAR diamond ring as a 70th birthday gift, and Lily Safra, who owned 18 pieces of JAR jewelry, are among the global celebrities captivated by his world. They are individuals with an eye for recognizing original artistry and scarcity value beyond brand names.

The highest price for a JAR work auctioned at Christie’s was the ruby and diamond ‘Camellia’ brooch from the 2012 Geneva charity auction ‘Jewels of Hope: The Lily Safra Collection’, which sold for $4.32 million (approximately 5.8 billion KRW). This was four times its low estimate. Since first appearing at auction in New York in 1984, Christie’s has handled about two-thirds of all JAR works to date, demonstrating that JAR pieces are recognized as core items by major auction houses and hold high value for collectors. The Geneva auction this time was also filled with excitement far exceeding expectations. On May 14th, in a crowded Christie’s auction room bustling with global collectors, the 21-piece JAR collection sold for a staggering total of $7.1 million. This was a record exceeding three times the pre-sale estimate. The apricot blossom bracelet I fell in love with at first sight in Bangkok found a new owner at four times its estimate after an even fiercer competition. It was a day when JAR’s work solidified its unique position by having its artistic value recognized within the jewelry domain. This Christie’s Geneva auction was a great success as a ‘White Glove Sale’, with all 115 lots sold. Even amidst global economic and political uncertainty, luxury jewelry proved its unshakable, solid standing. It was clear evidence that high-quality jewelry maintains firm value as a stable investment even in volatile markets. As the influence of Korean collectors grows in the global art market, now is the time for increased interest and investment in the field of jewelry artists. While jewelry investment has long focused on diamonds or the three major colored stones, JAR works possess the intrinsic value of gemstones, an artistic premium, and scarcity. They are items whose value can be expected to appreciate over time. Asian collectors are also showing increasing interest in JAR, and the value of works imbued with original design and craftsmanship is steadily rising.
The journey of JAR, which began in a small Parisian atelier, now shines in art museums and auction houses worldwide. We invite you into the beautiful world of jewelry as an art form that captures the spirit of its time.