Editor’s Note
This article explores the shifting dynamics of the gemstone market, where the unique natural hues and artistry of colored stones are challenging the traditional dominance of diamonds. It highlights how value is increasingly defined by individuality and craftsmanship rather than standardized grading.
The gemstone market, once dominated by the perfect transparency of diamonds, has entered a new phase. Unlike diamonds, which are governed by the strict criteria of the 4Cs (Color, Clarity, Cut, Carat), the charm of colors created by nature is now creating new value. Colored stones demonstrate a distinct presence from diamonds through the unique natural colors of the rough material and the sophisticated cutting techniques that maximize them. With the continuous price increases and supply shortages of the three major colored stones—ruby, sapphire, and emerald—collectors’ attention has naturally expanded to new gemstones. In the context of modern aesthetics that favor vivid colors and intricate cutting, previously overlooked gemstones are captivating collectors’ hearts with their unique charm.
If ‘bling,’ the epitome of glamour and luxury, belongs to the realm of diamonds, colored stones are defining a new luxury with the diverse colors and unique personalities crafted by nature. The value of colored stones stems not from mere transparency or brilliance, but from the depth and balance of each rough stone’s unique color, the intensity of its saturation, the rarity of its origin, and the sculptural beauty that shines through cutting. Masters of colored stone polishing, with decades of experience, read the structure and properties of each rough stone.
They determine the optimal cutting direction considering cleavage and color zones, and identify the color and characteristics of each rough stone to maximize the gem’s latent beauty. Under their skilled hands, the rough stone reveals its best brilliance and color, gaining new life. Particularly, gemstones with unique characteristics found only in specific locations, such as Paraíba tourmaline or Kashmir sapphire, are valued even more highly for their rarity, serving as both artworks created by nature and evidence of geological history.
If the rainbow spectrum bestowed by nature is fully contained within a single gemstone group, it is undoubtedly tourmaline. Paraíba tourmaline, resembling the blue waves of the Caribbean, presents an intense presence of neon blue. Rubellite, with its diverse spectrum from vivid red to raspberry color, maintains consistent clarity even in large rough stones. From green tourmaline holding the mystery of tropical rainforests, indicolite containing the deep blue of the ocean, to lagoon tourmaline resembling the clear water color of tropical beaches, tourmaline perfectly embodies the colors of nature. This diversity can also be found in its etymology. As its name, derived from the Sinhalese word ‘Toramalli’ meaning ‘mixed gemstone,’ suggests, tourmaline boasts the richest color spectrum among single gemstone groups. Two, sometimes three, colors coexist within a single crystal, and it even presents subtle gradients from the interior to the exterior. This is why the ancient Greeks revered it as ‘the gemstone that holds all the colors of the rainbow.’
Paraíba tourmaline, the top-tier gemstone within the tourmaline group, was first discovered in the late 1980s in Paraíba, Brazil. Its unique blue hue—referred to as neon blue, electric blue, or Windex blue—created by copper and manganese components, presented a new aesthetic to the colored stone market. Although the official mineral name of this gemstone, belonging to the elbaite series within the tourmaline group, is ‘cuprian elbaite,’ it is better known by the commercial name ‘Paraíba tourmaline,’ named after its discovery site. Characteristics based on origin are also distinct. While Brazilian Paraíba stones showcase the essence of top-grade neon blue, those later discovered in Mozambique and Nigeria are characterized by larger sizes and higher transparency. Particularly, Mozambican stones possess a broad color spectrum ranging from bluish-green to purple. In terms of value, Brazilian neon blue commands the highest premium due to its unique color, as if a piece of the pristine Caribbean sea were captured in a gemstone.
The modern jewelry market has reached a turning point. While the traditional diamond market is being reshaped by the emergence of lab-grown diamonds, colored stones are maintaining an even more solid growth trend. Although various synthetic gemstones are circulating in the market under the name ‘Paraíba tourmaline,’ it is virtually difficult to perfectly replicate the characteristics of natural stones due to their complex chemical structure. This is also why natural Paraíba tourmaline that has passed the strict appraisals of major gemological institutions maintains high value.
Particularly in South Korea, the 8.8 billion won Paraíba tourmaline ring worn by G-Dragon sparked话题 and further heightened interest in its investment value. The outlook from industry experts met at the world’s three major gem shows—Hong Kong, Bangkok, and Las Vegas—is also consistent. The supply of premium Paraíba tourmaline is extremely limited, and while new supply has halted due to the depletion of Brazilian Paraíba mines, demand continues to grow. Among investors, Paraíba tourmaline has already established itself as a new ‘blue chip,’ and Brazilian rough stones are setting new price records every year.
In the modern gemstone market, if diamonds still symbolize ‘eternal love,’ colored stones present a new standard of luxury with the unique beauty bestowed by nature. At the center of this, Paraíba tourmaline has risen to the pinnacle of the high jewelry market with the allure of neon blue created by copper and its high rarity.