Editor’s Note
This article examines the growing trend of recycled gold in the jewellery sector, highlighting its role in promoting sustainability while also exploring the significant regulatory and ethical challenges that accompany its rise.
The rise of recycled gold has emerged as one of the main trends in the international jewellery industry. In Spain, this phenomenon is gaining prominence amid growing interest in sustainability and traceability in the supply chain. However, the concept of “recycled gold” is surrounded by regulatory ambiguities, ethical dilemmas, and questionable practices. This article examines the impact of recycled gold on the Spanish jewellery sector, analyses its regulatory framework, and explores the tensions between marketing, real sustainability, and corporate responsibility.
Recycled gold is presented as a supposedly more sustainable alternative to traditional mining, which is associated with negative social and environmental impacts (World Gold Council, 2022). In the Spanish context, an increasing number of jewellery brands, both independent and large chains, highlight the use of recycled gold as a sign of ecological commitment. However, the categories under which this gold is certified generate debate, especially regarding its origin, the definition of “recycled,” and the existing control mechanisms.
Internationally, the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) allows gold from both post-consumer waste (used jewellery, electronic waste) and industrial waste (production scraps, filings) to be classified as “recycled.” This broad definition has been criticised for inducing greenwashing practices, as it does not guarantee a tangible environmental benefit (Vogue Business, 2024).
In Spain, while there is no specific regulation defining recycled gold, companies that import or certify materials must comply with EU regulations on precious metals, waste, and responsible trade (Ministry for the Ecological Transition and the Demographic Challenge, 2023). However, these rules do not directly address traceability criteria in jewellery, leaving a gap that allows for flexible interpretations.
In the last decade, Spain has seen the emergence of brands betting on ethical production, such as Apodemia, Aristocrazy, or Mumit. Many of them claim to use recycled gold in their collections, usually accompanied by certifications from European or international suppliers. However, transparency levels vary considerably, and few brands detail the exact percentage of recycled content or the specific origin of the metal.
According to data from the Spanish Jewellers Federation (2024), about 35% of the gold traded in jewellery in Spain in 2023 came from recycled sources, a figure that is increasing but below the European average.
One of the main challenges of recycled gold is the absence of standardised and auditable traceability mechanisms. Often, melted gold can come from old jewellery, seizures, or unregulated secondary markets. This poses ethical risks, including the possibility that gold of illegal origin is “laundered” by being included in the recycling cycle (Earthworks, 2023).
In this context, the lack of transparency harms both consumers and truly committed companies. The use of blockchain to certify the metal’s journey from its origin to the final product is beginning to be applied in pilot projects, but its adoption in Spain is still incipient (Joya Magazine, 2025).
To guarantee real sustainability, it is necessary to:
– Establish a legal and restricted definition of “recycled gold.”
– Implement mandatory traceability systems.
– Promote independent and accessible certification for SMEs.
– Foster consumer education regarding the origin and process of the metal.
The future of recycled gold in Spain will depend on the sector’s ability to articulate common standards, with the support of institutions, NGOs, and informed consumers. Therefore, it is very likely that:
– Regulatory reforms are on the horizon (e.g., FTC in the USA, European standards) that could redefine what is considered “recycled.”
– Brands will have to opt for labels like “repurposed.”
– Consumers will demand more transparency, especially regarding origin, and social and environmental impact.