Editor’s Note
This article explores the unique position of antique jewelry as “wearable art” within the broader art auction market, which is traditionally dominated by paintings and sculptures.
The art auction market, typically traded at houses like Sotheby’s or Christie’s, primarily features traditional artworks such as paintings and sculptures. Art auctions are composed of various categories including modern art, classical masterpieces, Asian art, design, and contemporary art.
However, recently in the overseas auction market, the ‘luxury’ category, encompassing wine, handbags, watches, and jewelry, is garnering increasing attention. These luxury items are investment targets where artistry and rarity are concentrated, going beyond mere luxury goods. Furthermore, works that possess value that does not fade and unique narratives, even as time passes, are also cultural heritage positioned at the boundary between art and history. While luxury auctions beyond ‘art’ or ‘paintings’ might still be unfamiliar to domestic collectors, the light emitted by these small artworks is by no means weak.
The art auction market is a place where one can experience the essence of luxury. The luxury category, represented by designer handbags, exquisite watches, and dazzling jewelry, captivates collectors worldwide. Among these, antique jewelry that has carried over a century of time intact to the present day receives attention not as mere accessories but as living artworks.
The true charm of antique jewelry lies in the stories and history embedded beyond its external beauty. The selection of gemstones, the intricacy of craftsmanship, the cultural background of the era, and even the traces of past owners—all these elements combine to complete a single piece. Extremely rare works that defined an era or precious gems that survived historical upheavals possess high premium value based on their scarcity alone.
People often confuse antique jewelry with vintage jewelry. However, the two have distinct differences in temporal criteria and artistic value.
Antique jewelry refers to works that are at least 100 years old, a standard originating from U.S. customs policies in the 1930s. There is a historical background where tax exemption benefits were granted to handmade works from before mass production, formalizing their artistic value. On the other hand, vintage jewelry generally refers to works between 20 and less than 100 years old, reflecting the trends and styles of a specific era. For example, Art Deco style jewelry from the 1920s has now ascended to the ranks of antique, while works produced between 1930 and 1965 are classified as vintage jewelry.
In other words, antique jewelry can be said to possess deeper art-historical value and weight than vintage. This goes beyond a simple time difference and serves as an important yardstick for collectors to gauge a piece’s scarcity and value. As the saying goes, ‘There is no antique in the house of a nouveau riche,’ owning an antique signifies a cultural discernment that penetrates the stories and value forged by time.
If general jewelry purchases are primarily influenced by design or brand, antique jewelry is a collection that requires cultural capital and artistic sensibility. As a unique gem holding irreplaceable time, antique jewelry enjoys a high premium on the auction stage, offering a special experience and emotion to those who understand its value.
Among various antique artworks, jewelry holds special value in that its beauty can be directly experienced through wearing it. In particular, the two styles that adorned the early 20th century—Art Nouveau (1895–1915) with its graceful curvilinear beauty inspired by nature, and Art Deco (1920–1939) characterized by bold and intricate geometric patterns—vividly capture the aesthetic sensibilities of their era and perfectly harmonize with today’s modern fashion. The designs from this period continue to inspire luxury brands like Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Bulgari and are being reinterpreted in a modern context.
Cartier was a representative brand of the Art Deco era, introducing collections like ‘Tutti Frutti’ in the 1920s. Its 2024 ‘Le Voyage Recommencé’ collection featured an Art Deco-style black onyx and diamond bracelet. Van Cleef & Arpels also offers glimpses of works combining Art Deco’s geometric elements and Art Nouveau’s naturalistic elements, from its heritage jewelry of the past to the ‘Poetry of Time’ collection. Thus, wearing antique jewelry is a special pleasure of simultaneously experiencing the aesthetics of the past and present.
Antique jewelry can be accessed through various domestic and international channels. The breadth of choice and depth of experience vary depending on the approach. Domestically, rare pieces can be encountered at some galleries and vintage specialty shops in Seoul and online platforms, but the selection is limited. Major domestic auction houses like K Auction and Seoul Auction periodically present antique and vintage jewelry, and works can be previewed through catalogs and preview exhibitions. These professional auction houses provide curated high-quality works and expert advice, offering a relatively safe starting point for novice collectors.
The international market offers more diverse options. Particularly, major auction houses like Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams feature a much wider variety of types, price ranges, and period-specific works in terms of scale and prominence, where fierce competition among global collectors unfolds. Their Seoul offices sometimes offer opportunities to preview major works and bid. Overseas auctions have the advantage of encountering more diverse and authenticity-verified works, but there are entry barriers such as customs duties, shipping, and bidding procedures. Utilizing reliable partnerships like ‘Oraxvolt’ can facilitate access.
Regardless of where one starts, verifying a work’s provenance and authenticity is essential. One must meticulously review the auction house’s condition report and also request related documents proving hallmarks (authenticity certification) and provenance. Beginners are advised to start with small pieces and gradually expand their collection. While investment value is important, the key is to cultivate an eye for selecting works one loves, enjoy the process of learning and appreciation, and steadily continue the collecting journey.
From 18th-century Paris to 21st-century Seoul, antique jewelry is a medium that carries forward the legacy of human aesthetics. When a pendant that once adorned Marie Antoinette’s neck illuminates a woman’s décolletage today, we participate in a timeless chronicle of beauty.