Editor’s Note
A Vanderbilt collection of Belle Époque jewelry far exceeded expectations at a recent Phillips auction in Geneva, highlighting strong market demand for exceptional provenance.
Geneva—A collection of Belle Époque jewelry that belonged to a Vanderbilt sold for more than four times its low-end estimate at a recent Phillips’ Geneva Jewels auction.
Notably missing from “The Geneva Jewels Auction: V” sale, held Nov. 10, was a 6.95-carat fancy vivid purplish pink diamond. It was expected to sell for around $9 million but was withdrawn prior to the sale. A Phillips spokesperson stated:
“The Glowing Rose,” a 10.08-carat cushion-shaped brilliant-cut fancy vivid pink diamond estimated at nearly $20 million, was also recently withdrawn from a Sotheby’s sale.
The Vanderbilt collection, however, was 100 percent sold, garnering more than $4.2 million. Leading the sale was “The Vanderbilt Sapphire,” a 42.68-carat sugarloaf Kashmir sapphire and diamond brooch mounted by Tiffany & Co. Phillips noted its intricate openwork design accented by old-cut diamonds is quintessentially Belle Époque. The brooch sold for $3.6 million, well above its estimate of $1 million to $1.5 million.
Another highlight was a Cartier diamond brooch, originally part of a Belle Époque diamond tiara given to Gladys Moore Vanderbilt, Countess Széchényi, for her 1908 marriage. The brooch sold for $560,582 (estimate: $100,000-$150,000). An emerald and diamond bow brooch and a gold and diamond hair comb also sold above their estimates.
Benoît Repellin, worldwide head of jewelry at Phillips, said:
The overall jewelry auction garnered more than $17 million, with 85 percent of lots sold (90 percent by value). Over 1,600 people visited during the preview and sale, with bidders from 44 countries participating.
The No. 2 lot was an 18.09-carat Kashmir sapphire and diamond ring, selling for $2.8 million. The No. 3 lot, a 10.08-carat light pink-brown old cushion-shaped diamond from Golconda, sold for $880,915 (estimate: $450,000-$600,000). A 1920s Van Cleef & Arpels diamond sautoir sold for $416,433, and a Jean Schlumberger “Plumes” necklace sold for $352,261.
Phillips’ next live jewelry sale will be held in New York on Dec. 8.
