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【Tabarka, Tun】Africa Economy – Tunisia: Coral Jewelry Artisans Face Extinction [2/2]

Editor’s Note

**Editor’s Note:** This piece examines the decline of Tunisia’s coral jewelry artisans, whose centuries-old craft is threatened by resource scarcity and rising costs along the once-prosperous coral coast.

Tunisia: Coral Jewelry Artisans Face Extinction [2/2]

Published on: 04/01/2024 – 00:01
In Tunisia, the coral coast stretching 180 km from Bizerte to Tabarka no longer brings much profit to local artisans. Accustomed to collecting debris or branches unsuitable for export, local jewelry artisans, once prosperous, now face extinction due to coral scarcity and high prices. A portrait of the doyen of this craft in Tabarka.
Jewelry crafted with Tabarka coral. © Lilia Blaise / RFI
From our correspondent in Tunis,
In his shop with a street frontage near the city center, Mokhtar Saoudi, 75, a coral jewelry artisan for four decades, waits for customers. He first fell in love with red gold at the age of 15.

“At that time, coral was available in large quantities. It sold for 30 euros per kilo. We would go with other young people to meet fishermen who brought coral using the Saint Andrew’s cross, a metal cross they threw into the reefs to break them and recover debris in the nets. Everything the fishermen didn’t keep, because it was too damaged or too small, we collected and applied a little olive oil to make it even redder. And we sold it for a few dinars on the street.”

Self-taught, Mokhtar later bought a grinding wheel and sandpaper, with which he began carving necklaces or bracelets.

Also listen: Tunisia: Coral Smuggling in Tabarka [1/2]
“People came from all over Tunisia”

Gradually, he lived only for this craft, which attracted many tourists to this town of 20,000 inhabitants, known for its landscapes between mountain and sea and the richness of its coral.

“People came from all over Tunisia to craft fairs where we sold our products. We even had the coral festival, a kind of festival dedicated to red gold. Business was good. There were already buyers who came to take the beautiful pieces and went directly to sell them in Italy, but that was a time when there were no customs controls or anything.”
“We end up working at a loss”

He then opened his workshop in the 2000s with five women he trained himself, but overexploited, coral became increasingly rare and expensive. It now requires diving to depths between 120 and 150 meters to find it in Tabarka. Over the past ten years, Mokhtar has seen his turnover drop significantly.

“Every day, I think about closing the shop and I can’t do it. But concretely, it’s no longer profitable for us artisans. We invest by buying 1 or 10 kilos of coral at 3,000 euros to make our jewelry, but then the customers don’t follow. We end up working at a loss.”

And the youth are not interested in taking over the trade. About twenty jewelers still live from coral in Tabarka. If Mokhtar still manages by buying confiscated smuggled coral at interesting prices at auctions, the craft itself risks disappearing.
By: Lilia Blaise

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⏰ Published on: January 04, 2024