Editor’s Note
This article explores the remarkable discovery of Paraíba tourmaline, a gemstone forged by unique geological processes. Its vivid, electric blue color, caused by trace copper, makes it one of the rarest and most coveted gems in the world.
A dramatic discovery in the Batalha mine in Paraíba, Brazil, was the start of it all. From 1981, a miner continued digging with the belief that somewhere in this hill lay a blue gemstone unlike any seen before. After years of persistence, he finally discovered the first rough stone, which was officially unveiled as the ‘Neon Tourmaline’. It was a masterpiece of neon blue crystals that shimmered like flowing electricity under sunlight, created over eons deep within the Earth by copper and manganese. It later came to be known as ‘Paraíba Tourmaline’ after its place of discovery. Tourmaline is the gemstone with the most diverse colors within a single mineral group. The blend of colors created by the coexistence of elements like boron, iron, manganese, and copper speaks of geological upheavals and complex mineral environments. If diamonds symbolize high temperature and pressure, tourmaline is evidence of complexity and diversity.
In the 2000s, tourmalines with chemically identical compositions were also discovered in Nigeria and Mozambique. The International Gemological Institute classifies them all as Paraíba tourmaline based on copper content, but the gem market makes more nuanced distinctions. Currently, mining output from Paraíba, Brazil, has already bottomed out, and Mozambique has become the world’s largest producer. However, the industry structures differ. In Mozambique, they primarily only mine rough stones, with cutting and distribution handled in gem trading hubs like Thailand or Hong Kong. In contrast, Brazil is a traditional gem country that handles everything from mining to polishing in-house. This difference is reflected in price, with Brazilian stones commanding a premium alongside the ‘myth of the original discovery site’. Generally, Brazilian stones exhibit a more intense neon color, but recently, high-quality Mozambican rough has also achieved comparable hues. Nevertheless, with the Brazilian Paraíba mines virtually depleted, the value of the original is becoming even more prominent.
The true charm of tourmaline lies in the astonishing spectrum of colors displayed within a single mineral group. Each color has its own unique character and message, like a family where each member lives a different life. The queen of the tourmaline family is rubellite. It shows a spectrum rivaling rubies, from raspberry to deep red, with its appeal varying significantly by shade. If rubies represent authority, rubellite is freer and more sensual. The closer to a pure red, the higher its value. Indicolite, with its blue hues, holds the mystery of the deep sea. If sapphire symbolizes the nobility of the sky, indicolite contains the tranquility of the abyss. Its strong pleochroism shows different blue tones from every viewing angle. Paraíba tourmaline is undoubtedly the superstar of the tourmaline world. Its neon blue color, reminiscent of flowing electricity, gives a surreal feeling and represents a futuristic, innovative sensibility. Lagoon tourmaline is a marketing triumph. It was reborn as a completely new entity when its stiff name, ‘blue-green tourmaline’, was changed to ‘lagoon’. Parti-color tourmaline, where two or more colors harmonize within a single crystal, possesses a charm that is one of a kind in the world.
Tourmaline is a gemstone that defies standardization. The level of perfection depends on how delicately one utilizes its pleochroism, where the color changes depending on the viewing angle. This philosophy is even more starkly revealed in bi-color tourmaline. How the boundary where two colors meet is handled can elevate an ordinary stone into a work of art. So why do luxury brands choose such a demanding gemstone? They use tourmaline to express their own identities.
Tiffany chose a different direction. It reinterpreted the brand’s long-pursued world of the sea and myth by expressing ocean waves with a Mozambican cuprian elbaite tourmaline. The 2025 ‘Sea of Wonder’ collection is the result of connecting 19th-century New York elegance with 21st-century sensibility through tourmaline. Louis Vuitton conveys the message of ‘harmony between tradition and innovation’ by combining a 173.05-carat Brazilian indicolite and a 164.34-carat rubellite with its Monogram Flower design. Their commonality is embedding a ‘storytelling’ element in tourmaline that diamonds cannot provide. Brands no longer choose gemstones just because they are precious. They want gemstones with a narrative, like the cultural context of a color or a unique origin. Among these, tourmaline is emerging as a leading candidate for a colored stone that can be branded.
The popularity of colored stones is not limited to tourmaline. Spinel and garnet are also stones already gaining attention from high jewelry brands and the auction market. Each has broadened the selection by encompassing a wide color spectrum beyond red, including blue, violet, and orange. The message conveyed by the popularity of colored stones is clear: in the 21st century, a gemstone’s value is no longer determined solely by carat weight or clarity. The colored stone craze is not just about beautiful colors; ‘where it came from’ and ‘what story it holds’—its unique history—have also become important factors. Scarcity, origin, and luxury branding intertwine exquisitely, allowing a gemstone to finally become a ‘phenomenon’ symbolizing the times. The conviction of one miner in the 1980s has now taken over global auction houses, luxury boutiques, and young people’s social media. Those who hold Paraíba tourmaline commonly say it feels alive. And the subjects interpreting and consuming that story are no longer royalty or nobility, but all of us. The dream of one miner that began on a Brazilian hill is now shining with new light in the hands and around the necks of people worldwide.
