Editor’s Note
This article explores the philosophy behind Cartier’s latest high jewelry collection, “En Équilibre,” highlighting its pursuit of harmony not as static symmetry, but as a dynamic balance achieved through tension and light.
Original sophistication within restrained simplicity. The ultimate sculptural beauty revealed by Cartier’s high jewelry collection, ‘En Équilibre’ Chapter 2, unveiled in Beijing, China.
©Cartier
Cartier’s ‘harmony’ does not merely mean balanced forms. It is a living aesthetic achieved through tension and communication between different elements. The art of harmony and balance, demonstrated by the beauty of extremely restrained forms achieved by stripping away the unnecessary, blossomed with the high jewelry collection ‘En Équilibre’, which first unveiled its veil in Stockholm this year. And last November, a meaningful event introducing ‘En Équilibre’ Chapter 2 was held in Beijing, China, and W accompanied the occasion. Having previously confirmed the aesthetics of Cartier high jewelry and the Maison’s true creativity through collections like ‘Beautés du Monde’ which praises the beauty of the world, ‘Le Voyage Recommence’ which reinterprets the Maison’s creative heritage, and ‘Nature Sauvage’ which is a parade of noble animals and mysterious nature, Cartier has now presented a new fantasy named ‘Harmony’, unseen anywhere else, through a journey exploring artistic intuition and balance hidden within technical sophistication.
Said Jacqueline Karachi, High Jewelry Creation Director. As she said, Cartier’s creations always stand on the subtle balance between restraint and boldness, structure and emotion. The pure lines of design sometimes manifest intense presence, and through the beauty of absolute forms where light and shadow, intense stones and craftsmanship, and intersecting techniques combine, one can glimpse the aesthetic way Cartier views the world.
The Summer Palace in Beijing, where En Équilibre Chapter 2 was introduced, is an imperial garden of the Qing Dynasty, showcasing the essence of traditional Chinese architecture and landscape art. As a place demonstrating the heritage and unchanging values held by Cartier high jewelry, the Summer Palace, where nature and architecture, past and present coexist, was a splendid choice.
Said Alexa Abitbol, High Jewelry Manufacturing Director.
The newly unveiled En Équilibre Chapter 2 vividly conveys the living, breathing aesthetics of the Maison through pieces like the ‘Vetrata’ and ‘Nemorosa’ necklaces, which hint at the aesthetics and architectural style of the Art Deco era; the ‘Byzas’ and ‘Cafayate’ necklaces, which achieve harmony through contrast and balance of color; and the ‘Haliade’ and ‘Panthères Reflexio’ necklaces, inspired by natural waves and animals. Through the six key pieces introduced below, we invite you to explore more deeply the ‘art of balance’ where harmony and tension, restraint and boldness coexist, and to confirm the new fantasy and its enchanting aesthetics completed by Cartier.
A creation embodying the unique aesthetics and architectural style of the Art Deco era, characterized by distinct rectangular cut structural features. Embracing the Art Deco format where the entire design consists of symmetrical or repetitive patterns, 20 sets of diamonds separated by onyx were meticulously set as symmetrical elements on a radial structure. Decorative details are minimized, relying on form and arrangement for visual effect, so the power of this geometric graphic design maximizes the rhythm and contrast of the composition. Implementing such complex and curvilinear forms while ensuring flexibility and comfort. Cartier artisans devised extremely precise and delicate links to overcome the challenge. White gold, onyx, and diamonds emphasize the visual impact of the realized geometric design.
A graphic motif unfolding as one curve harmonizes with a curve flowing in the opposite direction further highlights the formal beauty of cushion-cut emeralds. The sapphire pendant adds intensity and the aesthetics of contrast, as filled and empty spaces intersect, creating harmony between the stone and the setting. While openwork emphasizes the dynamic design, geometric squares and tapered-cut diamonds arranged along the edges heighten tension throughout the Byzas necklace like punctuation marks. Platinum, sapphire, emerald, and diamond setting.
©Davit Giorgadze ©Cartier
A necklace where three colored sapphires enveloping three different opals with red, orange, and yellow light harmonize. The mysterious light that the two gemstones spread throughout the necklace is characteristic of Cafayate. In the necklace completed with yellow gold and pink gold mesh, Umba sapphires continue the flow of warm light, and the balance between gemstones, variations of color, and the arrangement of settings along the curves achieve perfect harmony. Enjoy the luxurious feast of light from pink gold, yellow gold, opal, colored sapphires, diamonds, and more.
©Davit Giorgadze ©Cartier
Waves reminiscent of the sea. To add flexible movement to waves imbued with volume, the Maison’s artisans adjusted delicate craftsmanship and links. Curves made of pavé-set diamonds are emphasized by straight bars set with diamonds or caliber-cut sapphires, creating unprecedented depth. This highly precise work demonstrates the artisans’ wondrous skill based on the arrangement of openwork and remarkable volume centered on the center stone. White gold, sapphire, and diamond settings evoke the undulating waves of the Mediterranean.
©Cartier
The first stone, a pair-shaped emerald, transforms into a pendant, and the second stone that follows, a square emerald cut, sits at the center in a rosette style made of diamonds, onyx, and crystal. In the very center, holding light, the crystallization of true craftsmanship is revealed; for this emerald, the Maison’s jewelers devised an invisible setting that makes the stone appear to float in the air. The bold touch of chains set with diamonds and black onyx surrounding it gives deep three-dimensionality to the entire piece. It is a creation beyond simple jewelry, where light and shadow, technique and art intersect.
©Cartier
Cartier’s symbol, the panther, spanning over 100 years, gains new life as it is exquisitely strung with baroque-shaped tourmaline beads in harmony of red and green. Based on the intense contrasting color palette created by the two colors, panthers facing each other appear within perfect symmetry. The panther, symbolizing the Maison’s heritage, reveals vitality as a timeless icon. Sculptural volume, delicate linework, anatomical precision, sharp emerald eyes, and black-spotted fur extending to onyx claws breathe vivid life into this majestic creation.