Editor’s Note
Cartier’s latest high jewelry collection, “En Équilibre,” redefines opulence through the lens of harmony and balance. This showcase of 115 pieces moves beyond mere spectacle, inviting a deeper contemplation of artistry and equilibrium. We explore the collection’s debut in Stockholm and the philosophy behind its dazzling craftsmanship.
Cartier’s 2025 High Jewelry Collection was unveiled on May 26 (local time) in Stockholm, Sweden. The theme encompassing a total of 115 beautiful jewels is ‘Balance’. What does this keyword signify in the world of high jewelry, known for its dramatic splendor and boundless luxury? We visited the exhibition site where global media gathered.
Jewelry historian Vivienne Becker defines high jewelry as ‘the haute couture of the jewelry world.’ Just as global fashion houses create haute couture collections separately from ready-to-wear, jewelry maisons also present high jewelry collections annually, a step above fine jewelry with a broader consumer base.
Cartier, which began in a Parisian jewelry atelier in 1847 and has a 178-year history, is no exception. Every year from late May to early June, it unveils around 100 new, artwork-like pieces, which is an event in itself. It holds the first unveiling event, named ‘Chapter 1,’ in one European city related to the collection’s theme, followed by Chapters 2 and 3 in other regions in September of the same year and April of the following year.
This year, a slightly different location was chosen: Stockholm, Sweden. How does this Nordic capital, known for its simple, uncluttered pragmatism, connect with dazzling and opulent high jewelry? The unexpected destination piqued curiosity about the collection early on.
The value of Stockholm, which encompasses two opposing elements, is closely linked to the theme of Cartier’s 2025 High Jewelry Collection, ‘En Équilibre’ (In Balance). The brand aimed for harmony between fullness and emptiness, symmetry and asymmetry, architectural richness and simple restraint in the collection, faithfully implementing this in the jewels. Stockholm, which geographically and culturally holds this perfect point of balance, was chosen as the optimal place to unveil the collection. Additionally, the Swedish concept of ‘Lagom’ also adds meaning. This word, meaning ‘just right’ or ‘not too much, not too little,’ became a keyword permeating the 2025 collection’s design.
The collection was unveiled at Nacka Strandsmässan, a former car factory building in Stockholm. The venue embodied the characteristics of Swedish industrial design: concise and functional by eliminating unnecessary elements, yet harmonizing with nature.
In the exhibition, Cartier presented three elements of balance: Color, Volume, and Rhythm. These were the vivid yet restrained colors of gemstones, the simple yet intense forms created by symmetry and asymmetry, and the rhythmic interaction between solidity and void. Jacqueline Karachi, Cartier’s High Jewelry Creation Director, described this approach as “the paradox of sophisticated simplicity.”
Among the 115 pieces unveiled that day, those dramatically revealing the three elements of balance held visitors’ gazes the longest.
The first standout was the Shito necklace. Inspired by the image of softly falling rain (as its Japanese name suggests), this necklace features two 49.37-carat Zambian emeralds harmonizing with curved diamonds. It was highly praised for perfectly showcasing Cartier’s vision of prioritizing the inherent value of gemstones. In terms of form, it adhered to the principle of ‘minimal excess’ by presenting only exquisite lines.
The Hyala necklace was also noted as a piece perfectly embodying the concept of balance. Soft-colored pink gold, diamonds, and sapphires blend harmoniously, and each gem connects softly and flexibly like a net, designed to perfectly fit the curved collarbone area.
Cartier’s signature panther motif jewels also claimed their place in this collection. One example is the ‘Panthère Orbitale,’ depicting a panther sitting atop a coral cabochon. While the emerald eyes and body adorned with diamonds and onyx are striking, the intense color contrast between coral and amethyst is particularly notable. In contrast, the ‘Panthère Dentelée’ necklace presented a soft panther adorned with diamonds, emeralds, and onyx. This necklace shaped Colombian emerald beads like a waterfall stream, maximizing the harmony of light passing between the gems.
Another highlight was the Pavocelle necklace, inspired by a peacock’s tail and eye spots. Platinum traforata (openwork) pieces, reminiscent of an animal’s tail, surround a 58.08-carat Ceylon sapphire cabochon, maximizing volume. It also demonstrated flexible balance by allowing the main piece to be detached and worn as a brooch, and the pair-shaped diamonds set in the clasp to be reattached as a pendant.
The highlight of Cartier’s High Jewelry Collection event is the Gala Dinner, creating an unreal time and space that continues the enchanting world of jewels. This time, guests were invited to the Artipelag art gallery located on the beautiful Värmdö island in the Stockholm archipelago. The fact that all guests traveled by boat, not car, marked the beginning of a special event.
The ‘Tableaux Vivants’ performance, viewed while walking from the dock to the Gala Dinner venue, was also a surprise event. Models wearing dresses by Italian haute couture designer Giambattista Valli staged dramatic scenes alongside key pieces from the En Équilibre collection. Against the backdrop of the Nordic ‘White Night,’ where the sun doesn’t set until around 10 PM, they created a fairytale-like story of appearing and disappearing in the forest.
Meanwhile, the gala dinner was attended by American actress Zoë Saldaña, Swedish actor Alexander Skarsgård, house ambassador Indian actress Deepika Padukone, and Japanese actress and singer Anna Sawai. The subsequent party featured a performance by the Canadian band ‘The Beaches’ and DJing by musician Dorian Piszal, celebrating the collection launch.
