Editor’s Note
This weekend’s auction of two rare Cartier clocks follows the recent sale of their companion pieces in Hong Kong, where one fetched nearly $2 million. It’s a timely reminder that horology remains a serious business for collectors.
Two Cartier clocks, the Cartier Pendule Mystérieuse and the Cartier Pendulette à Chevalet, will be offered at Phillips New York’s auction this weekend. Originally part of a collection of four clocks, the same consignor sold the remaining two pieces in Hong Kong last week. Among them was an 18th-century jade vessel-shaped “Water Clock” that fetched $1.92 million (approximately 299 million Japanese yen). As this demonstrates, clocks are big business.
In the early 20th century, Louis Cartier considered watchmaking to be of paramount importance to the maison. Needless to say, the innovation in watchmaking was brought about by the Santos-Dumont in 1904. This watch is widely regarded as the first men’s wristwatch specifically designed to be worn on the wrist. From this moment, watchmaking became a primary business for Cartier. Then, in 1912, the launch of the Mystery Clock solidified its position as a pioneer of innovative products.
Cartier’s movement structure is based on a design by the French watchmaker and illusionist Jean Eugène Robert-Houdin from the 1830s. As a pioneer of modern illusionism, he paved the way for other watchmakers and illusionists, including Maurice Coüet, who was responsible for the movement and structure of the long-selling “Model A” Mystery Clock first created in 1912. The first Mystery Clock is known to have been sold to the banker John Pierpont Morgan.
Before delving into the world of gem-encrusted timepieces, let’s explain how the Mystery Clock actually functions. The name “Mystery Clock” stems from the fact that its mechanism was a closely guarded secret at the time.
The principle involves attaching the hands to transparent crystal discs with toothed edges. Since the mechanism and the clock hands are not visibly connected, they appear to float in space. However, the hands are not actually rotating freely in the air. This special Pendule Mystérieuse (manufactured circa 1926) features a single-axle mechanism (first developed around 1920) driven by a single shaft extending from the bottom of the clock to the bottom of the dial, which drives the minute and hour display discs. The rock crystal discs are completely concealed by highly decorative bezels and frames, so the teeth are not visible from any angle.
Cartier resumed production of these clocks in 1981. Their popularity at auction surged in the 90s, but they have always been difficult to acquire. Even today, Cartier manufactures bespoke clocks for private clients.
Returning to the gem-studded Art Deco fantasy clock.
Rock crystal is a type of transparent quartz, and quartz itself is not an exceptionally rare or precious stone. However, finding pieces of this size that are perfectly transparent and flawless is nearly impossible today. Furthermore, the rock crystal used at the time was likely carved and polished in Idar-Oberstein, Germany.
Driven by a single-axle mechanism manufactured by Cartier in France and sold by Cartier London, this clock stands about 27.5 cm tall and is about 13.5 cm wide. The base is made of approximately 1 kg of solid gold, adorned with turquoise enamel, lapis lazuli, diamonds, onyx, coral, pearls, and other decorations, finished luxuriously with Art Deco motifs and color schemes. A jade pillar placed on the base supports the rock crystal dial surrounded by turquoise blue lacquer, featuring diamond Roman numeral indices. At the center of the dial are hands shaped like a dragon, crafted from diamonds and onyx. The hour hand represents the dragon’s head, and the minute hand its tail. This Mystery Clock comes with its original fitted case and a key with a serial number, corresponding to the number stamped on the clock with Cartier’s hand stamp.
This desk clock does not incorporate a mystery mechanism but is a very flamboyant piece. The Pendulette à Chevalet (manufactured circa 1930) with Cartier Paris signature is made of rock crystal, set in a solid jade bangle, and decorated with black enamel and diamonds. It houses a Longines manual-winding movement and is a work that can be described as a fusion of watchmaking and high jewelry, inspired by distant travels and the fashionable designs of the era.
Ornate decorative clocks might seem like an old-fashioned concept, but these are exemplary pieces where high jewelry and watchmaking merge as the ultimate form of human craftsmanship.
The New York Watch Auction: X will be held on June 8 and 9. The preview took place from June 5 to 7, from 10 AM to 7 PM, at Phillips, 432 Park Avenue, New York, NY.