Editor’s Note
This report from the 2025 Cosmet’Agora trade show highlights a key industry shift toward formulations that prioritize a radiant, luminous complexion and a heightened sensory experience. The focus on “glow” and sensoriality underscores evolving consumer desires for both visible results and pleasurable product use.
Complexion luminosity, a glowy effect, and the pursuit of sensoriality are the main trends identified by Premium Beauty News among the proposals from cosmetic formulation players gathered on January 14 and 15, 2025, for the 17th edition of the Cosmet’Agora trade show.
Every year in early January, cosmetic formulation players gather in Paris for the Cosmet’Agora show organized on the initiative of the Société Française de Cosmétologie (SFC).
For the 2025 edition, many formulations focused on complexion luminosity and glow, with sublimating textures (Stéarinerie Dubois’s Illuminateur Minuit Rose, Evonik’s Multibalm Satin Naturel, Miyoshi’s Huile d’Or), or by combining immediate beautifying effects (radiance, shine) with lasting skincare benefits (hydration, anti-aging), with Symrise’s Skin Glow Serum, Lavollée’s Riviera Glow, Roelmi’s Primer contour des yeux, or Solabia’s Emotion-Proof Foundation.
The sensory experience remains a staple of the cosmetic world. A constantly renewed challenge when it comes to replacing key ingredients that no longer meet new market requirements or pushing formulas to their ultimate limits.
Croda, with its Senstories concept, highlighted the use of advanced emulsifiers derived from neuroscience research.
Lucas Meyer, with its Pickmulse emulsifier, plays on the appeal of Pickering emulsions, while IES Ingredients, with Perles de l’Omega, and Lavollée, with Riviera Glow, proposed aqueous and oily combinations.
Also on the program were transforming galenics: Hallstar’s Defying gravity beauty mask, Grant Industries’ Silk Touch Clean Serum SPF50, Gattefossé’s Wicked Slime.
Beyond these two major trends, other proposals that caught our attention:
formulas that help skin adapt to climate variations (BASF); a special-grade niacinamide, with clinically proven efficacy on menopausal skin (dsm-firmenich); boosted sunscreens to combine efficacy, filter reduction, and sensoriality (Hallstar’s submicron encapsulation technology, Grant Industries’ Silk Touch Clean Serum SPF50, Biolie’s Multipurpose Baldbuster Balm); and even increasingly eco-responsible ingredients and processes, limiting water use, with low-energy cold processes (Biolie’s Multipurpose Baldbuster Balm, Croda Beauty Actives Sederma’s Masque peel-off, Agrimer’s slimming formula, Sinerga’s Icy Sorbet Shower).
These numerous innovations echoed the theme “Glamour, Romance, Adventure, Thrill…” chosen by the organizers for the Formulation Award, but they also respond to fundamental expectations from brands and consumers.