Editor’s Note
This article highlights how luxury group Richemont and its maison Van Cleef & Arpels are blending heritage craftsmanship with contemporary artistic collaboration, as showcased at the China International Import Expo.
PART 1: Heritage and Innovation
As one of the world’s leading luxury groups, Richemont made its appearance once again at the 7th China International Import Expo (CIIE). Van Cleef & Arpels, the high jewelry and watchmaking house under Richemont, interpreted the group’s exhibition theme “Cultural Gathering, Heritage of Craftsmanship” with its Perlée collection, a continuation of its long-standing gold bead craftsmanship. Collaborating with French artist Arthur Hoffner, the house created a vibrant and whimsical space, showcasing the modern and dynamic beauty of the gold bead element.
Van Cleef & Arpels China Managing Director Laura Lai (Lai Yuxin) gave an exclusive interview to Southern Metropolis Daily ahead of the CIIE, discussing the inheritance of classics in the digital age, market promotion and marketing in China, and jewelry consumption trends among the younger generation. Lai stated that Van Cleef & Arpels has never actively engaged in “metaphysical” marketing, as the house focuses more on shortening the distance between people and jewelry compared to short-term marketing tactics. The aim is to give the public equal opportunities to enter the artistic world of jewelry, sparking interest in it, which also presents excellent business opportunities for the house.
“Many of Van Cleef & Arpels’ contemporary pieces are continuously inspired by past designs. You can see the cultural heritage of over a hundred years in the details, and on this foundation, we innovate and even surpass the past, especially in terms of technique.”
“AI’s impact on Van Cleef & Arpels is mainly reflected in work efficiency. For a house with a global business of such scale, AI helps us analyze customer data and trends more effectively and accurately, and breaks temporal and spatial boundaries through digital communication, aiding business operations. But it cannot replace creativity. Creativity is flesh and blood. We still hope, as we did a hundred years ago, that works created through human wisdom, insight, and skillful hands remain the most precious.”
Regarding the balance between jewelry and watches, Lai explained that as a high jewelry house, one of Van Cleef & Arpels’ watchmaking philosophies is “Jewels that tell time.” Therefore, their approach differs from typical watch brands; the starting point is not just to make a watch, but how to bestow a timekeeping function upon a piece of jewelry. Familiar jewelry collections like Alhambra and Perlée have corresponding watch pieces.
“The technical craftsmanship of high jewelry also extends to watch dials and straps, while movements and mechanisms serve to better present the art. For example, the ‘Midnight Pont des Amoureux’ watch from the Poetic Complications series has very advanced and complex timekeeping functions, but we emphasize this less. Customers who love this watch care more about when the couple on the dial will kiss than how the retrograde movement works. An excellent movement is meant to better tell a story within the confines of the dial.”
PART 2: Market Promotion
Van Cleef & Arpels currently operates 31 boutiques in mainland China, primarily in first-tier cities like Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, and provincial capitals. Lai discussed future plans, emphasizing the synergy between online and offline channels.
“Chinese consumers’ luxury shopping habits are centered in large shopping malls and centers, so choosing the right platform is crucial when deciding to enter a city. Most luxury brands, including Van Cleef & Arpels, are concentrated in first-tier cities and provincial capitals, but the Chinese market is vast. Where physical stores cannot reach, online sales fill the gap.”
“Richemont was likely one of the earliest luxury groups to develop online sales channels. We have platforms including official websites, WeChat mini-programs, and Tmall flagship stores. Online channels can compensate for the shortcomings of physical stores, providing not only sales but also after-sales services.”
“Van Cleef & Arpels’ online platform has been operating for six or seven years, and we have delivered to over 700 cities in China through online sales. This truly makes you feel the enormous potential of the Chinese market.”
Lai also highlighted the role of initiatives like the L’ÉCOLE School of Jewelry Arts in Shanghai and the touring high jewelry art exhibition “Art of Movement” in promoting the house in China.
“What Van Cleef & Arpels strives to do is shorten the distance between people and jewelry. Whether hosting high jewelry exhibitions or establishing L’ÉCOLE, the original intention is the same: to give the public equal opportunities to enter the artistic world of jewelry and spark interest in it. Commercially, this is also a great opportunity for the house.”
PART 3: Consumption Trends
Addressing the trend of the Alhambra series being associated with “luck” and “metaphysics” among young consumers, Lai expressed that while the house has never marketed it as such, the positive message is welcomed.
“Van Cleef & Arpels often speaks of a ‘Positive Vision of Life.’ If customers can derive positive energy from their own understanding, that is the most delightful thing. We treat all customers equally, regardless of age or gender.”
On the rise of local Chinese jewelry brands and gold consumption, Lai viewed the increased attention as positive for the industry. She differentiated between gold and branded jewelry consumption, noting that the latter is based on cultural identification with the brand.
“People now think buying gold preserves value better, which is true; gold’s liquidation is very transparent. Jewelry is different. In the secondary market, the value retention varies. For Van Cleef & Arpels, it likely has the lowest unsold rate at auctions among all branded jewelry; pieces put up for auction are always sold. Furthermore, the scarcity of gemstones drives value appreciation, offering relatively greater potential for premium.”
Regarding the CIIE participation focusing on the Perlée collection, Lai explained that the gold bead element, like the Alhambra motif, has a rounded visual appeal symbolizing completeness in both Eastern and Western ancient cultures. The theme aligns perfectly with “Heritage of Craftsmanship,” as each gold bead requires manual polishing, demanding high craftsmanship.
“Van Cleef & Arpels never engages in short-term marketing or strategies for immediate gain. The current Chinese luxury consumption market is indeed challenging, but we believe this is a necessary path for the industry’s normalization. Van Cleef & Arpels maintains a steady mindset, faithfully presenting jewelry art and pieces to people, bridging the distance between jewelry and individuals.”
