Editor’s Note
Van Cleef & Arpels’s latest High Jewelry collection finds its muse in Robert Louis Stevenson’s classic adventure, “Treasure Island.” We explore how the maison translates literary themes of pirates, sailing ships, and tropical palms into exquisite jewels, balancing meticulous craftsmanship with a spirit of playful storytelling.
Palms, sailing ships, and pirates: Van Cleef & Arpels drew inspiration from the novel “Treasure Island” for its new High Jewelry collection. The new High Jewelry collection from Van Cleef & Arpels is a tribute to the novel “Treasure Island”. CEO Catherine Rénier discusses the balance between precision and playfulness.
Van Cleef & Arpels finds inspiration in literature for its new High Jewelry collection. A ship with sails made of diamonds, gliding towards an island with palm trees of emeralds, beneath which lie corals of rubies. This was the vision for this unique jewelry collection – one can even explore it beautifully illustrated and playfully on the Van Cleef & Arpels website. The initial source of inspiration was once again the plot of “Treasure Island” (1883).
She is referring to the classic pirate imagery that has been anchored in the collective memory for a long time through this novel. But how does this fit together: the highest craftsmanship and a childlike, enthusiastic lightness?
She further explains that they deliberately aimed to create a theatrical moment. For the implementation, not only the novel played an important role but also the vast archive of Van Cleef & Arpels. Inspired by literature, poetry, and art, in keeping with the house’s tradition, the focus this time was particularly on the visual language and style of the 1950s and 1960s, according to Rénier. Each jewelry piece stands on its own but simultaneously fits seamlessly into a three-part narrative. This storytelling was considered from the very beginning – even during the design process. Thus, the balance between precision and play requires a clear structure.
And it looks like this: The beginning celebrates the sea; featuring designs inspired by maritime navigation and sailor’s knots, capturing the color palette and depth of the ocean. True to the house’s connection to nature, the second chapter is then dedicated to a theme particularly close to Van Cleef & Arpels’ heart: A rich flora and fauna, from turtles to shells, is shown in the form of miniature sculptures. The third part of the story is finally a journey around the globe, ranging from India to the cultural treasures of the pre-Columbian world. These chapters also lay the foundation for the vibrant play of colors from the collection’s various precious stones.
The diversity is also a loving homage to a cliché:
The most important foundation of these jewelry pieces is, of course, the highest craftsmanship, as it alone makes the implementation of such delicate motifs as pirate figures or sunsets in miniature possible. Wax is used to make the proportions and details of each creation tangible. The entire process is time-consuming and can take between six and eight weeks.
The technical refinements of the jewelry pieces also refer to the craft excellence of ancient cultures like the Maya, which served as another source of inspiration for the creation of the collection.
Some jewelry pieces, such as the “Palmier Mystérieux” clip, even feature interchangeable elements, reflecting the playful spirit of the house.
And that is probably the most important aspect for that balance: the joy of experimentation – as a conscious contrast to technical rigor.