Editor’s Note
This article explores how high jewelry is embracing bold, modern design through innovative shapes and striking arrangements, as seen in pieces from leading houses like Pomellato and Chopard.
High jewelry continues its evolution into the modern era with jaw-dropping pieces that play with shape in forward-thinking arrangements. Some danced around heavyweight stones like a 22.23-carat Ceylon sapphire perched amidst a waterfall of diamonds set in a series of chain links on Pomellato’s Cascade necklace or on a curvy cocktail ring from Chopard in ethical 18-karat white gold and blue titanium set with sapphires and diamonds and cradling a 29.76-carat tanzanite. For more “everyday” wear (if one can be so presumptuous) a two circles of pave pink sapphires sit perpendicular each other on Van Cleef & Arpels’ simply stunning Ludo Secret watch in 18-karat rose gold and yellow sapphires and diamonds accent every curve of Reza’s 18-karat white and blackened gold Ruban earrings.
Some were positively futuristic in design. Vhernier’s signature look straddled 18-karat rose gold minimalism with opulence in a snaking accent of pave diamonds in the Ardis Forma di Luce necklace, while Piaget’s asymmetrical Australian opals were set in a cobblestone-like pattern in 18-karat white gold and diamonds with a 9.26 Madagascan sapphire perched in the center in its Flowing Curves masterpiece.
Meanwhile, even traditional makers added a little edge. Tiffany & Co.’s high jewelry often has a more romantic flair—typically referencing Jean Schlumberger’s mid-century designs—but a pair of platinum and 18-karat yellow gold drop earrings took shape in layers and swirls set with pops of crystal opals, along with diamonds and subtle hints of sapphires that took on a surprising twist.
Vhernier
Ardis Forma di Luce necklace in 18-karat rose gold and diamonds
Reza
Ruban earrings in 18-karat white and blackened gold and diamonds
Chopard
Red Carpet Collection ring in ethical 18-karat white gold and titanium with a 29.76-carat tanzanite, sapphires, and diamonds
Piaget
Extraleganza Collection Flowing Curves necklace in 18-karat white gold with a 9.26-carat Madagascan sapphire, 26.39 carats of Australian opals, and diamonds
Van Cleef & Arpels
Ludo Secret watch in 18-karat rose gold with mother-of-pearl and pink sapphires
Tiffany & Co.
Blue Book 2025 Collection earrings in platinum and 18-karat yellow gold with crystal opals, diamonds, and sapphires
Pomellato
Collezione 1967 Blue Chain Cascade necklace in 18-karat white gold with a 22.23-carat Ceylon sapphire and diamonds. All prices upon request.