Editor’s Note
This dispatch from the jewelry trade highlights a compelling shift in focus. While industrial production remains a strength, the current vogue is for warmth and artisanal mastery, with exceptionally fine, fabric-like gold mesh exemplifying this trend.
While Italy excels in the mass production of chains by machine, the current spotlight is on pieces with a warmer feel and those showcasing masterful artisan techniques. Exceptionally fine mesh gold was also in the spotlight.
The textures of mesh have become more diverse than ever, yet each piece boasts a supple, fabric-like feel that truly astonishes with its high level of craftsmanship. At this event, staff from Calgaro paraded through the venue wearing headdresses and shawls woven from gold, leaving buyers wide-eyed.
Left: Calgaro
The wrist is wrapped tightly with a gold tie woven in a dense pattern. A necklace with fringe also exudes a sense of opulence. From a slight distance, it genuinely looks like fabric made of gold.
Center: Orlando Orlandini
A Florentine workshop highly acclaimed at the international jewelry competition “Gold Virtuosity 2000.” Their work draws inspiration from the chainmail of medieval knights.
Right: Cherin Renato
White gold, knitted with a touch reminiscent of Indian cotton gauze, is paired with multi-colored freshwater pearls. It possesses a mysterious presence, somewhere between fine jewelry and an accessory.
Finally, the cross pendant was prominently showcasing its enduring appeal. As mentioned in the Damiani article, the noticeable trends were not Gothic designs popular in Japan, but rather simple pieces suitable for casual wear and fantastical designs.
Left: Pasquale Bruni
A large cross adorned with pink tourmalines arranged like a flower. On the left hand is the new “Stars” ring. The watch wrapped multiple times around the neck looked somewhat constricting…
Right: Pasquale Bruni
A voluminous ring from the new “Stars” collection. It features shades of blue sapphire and subdued cognac-colored diamonds as key points. Both pale sapphires and brown diamonds are gemstones rarely used in jewelry.
Indeed, in Japan, to match the current fashion scene’s fantastical and softly sweet taste, Victorian or Gothic-style accessories are popular. These antique-style accessories are likely very approachable and an “easy-to-understand” style for those who wear them.
However, in Europe, few designers or users jump on such “fake antique” trends. Instead, they express the atmosphere of the contemporary “now” in a more sophisticated, clever, elegant, and smart way.