【Milan, Italy】Innovation Lab

Editor’s Note

This article highlights Kering’s Material Innovation Lab (MIL), a key initiative launched in 2013 to advance sustainable fashion. The MIL functions as both a curated library of eco-friendly fabrics and a catalyst for change, empowering the group’s brands to adopt more responsible materials and processes.

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Material Innovation Lab

Through innovation, knowledge sharing, and efforts to reduce environmental footprint, Kering advocates for breakthrough solutions and processes to make sustainable practices widely accessible.
In 2013, Kering established the Material Innovation Lab (MIL), dedicated to discovering sustainable fabrics and textiles. Located in Milan, the MIL serves both as a library of sustainable fabrics, enabling Kering’s brand design teams to better understand sustainable materials, and as a change agent within a highly complex supply chain. In this process, the Material Innovation Lab provides resources, tools, and new solutions to the Group’s brands and key suppliers, helping them understand how to make more sustainable choices in product development.
The Material Innovation Lab’s database offers a unique reference for suppliers and their fabric usage. Kering brands now have access to over 8,000 samples of certified organic fabrics and fibers, including alternative leathers, sustainable fabrics, as well as natural, cellulosic, and synthetic fibers. These fabrics undergo in-depth testing and are evaluated against external certification standards and tools specifically developed for the Material Innovation Lab based on the Environmental Profit & Loss (EP&L) account.
The Material Innovation Lab works closely with suppliers to align their practices more closely with the Kering Standards. This work extends throughout the entire supply chain—from raw material sourcing to production processes, from cultivation, spinning, weaving, to sustainable dyeing. The Material Innovation Lab also collaborates with leading industry startups to test various innovative approaches, including dyeing and finishing solutions, and applying biotechnology to agricultural waste to create new fibers.
Beyond archiving materials and providing solutions, the Material Innovation Lab has developed a sustainability rating system within the scope of the Kering Standards. Additionally, the Material Innovation Lab conducts auditing work across the industry. Our team is currently focused on supporting suppliers in obtaining comprehensive environmental certifications—they are driving change across the entire industry.
The following overview describes the types of samples referenced by the Material Innovation Lab:

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“Artificial Leather: Leather synthesized by blending leftover materials from the leather manufacturing process with textile materials, without using harmful adhesives.”
“Innovative Dyeing Process: This new technology can reduce the use of chemical agents in dyeing artificial fur and requires no water. Kering has initiated several pilot projects aimed at developing new eco-friendly manufacturing processes.”
“Artificial Fur: Sorona artificial fur is a bio-based polyester fiber. Kering has initiated several pilot projects aimed at developing new eco-friendly manufacturing processes.”
“Black Eco-Pigment: A black pigment extracted from by-products of the spirulina industry. This pigment has a negative carbon footprint, is UV-resistant, and safe. The extracted crude pigment is purified using patented technology and then ground into a dispersant with properties similar to carbon black.”
“South Gobi Cashmere: Traceable, sustainable cashmere from goats raised on pastures under the Kering-Mongolia South Gobi Desert Project. In 2014, Kering partnered with the Wildlife Conservation Society to help herders improve goat farming techniques.”
“100% Traceable Mohair: Traceable, sustainable mohair from selected farms in South Africa, compliant with the Sustainable Mohair Production Guidelines of South Africa. In 2019, Kering published its Animal Welfare Standards, aiming to ensure the best possible treatment of animals throughout its supply chain and to promote this practice industry-wide.”
Sustainable Innovation Lab
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In early 2020, Kering established the Sustainable Innovation Lab (SIL) for its watchmaking and jewelry business. Located at the Group’s watchmaking base in Switzerland, the Sustainable Innovation Lab focuses on providing materials such as gemstones and gold required for production to the Group’s jewelry brands.

A Grand Vision for Full Circular Development

To transition towards a circular economy, Kering needs to rethink its models for producing and using resources, as well as methods for extending product lifecycles.

“Raw Materials: Kering aims to ensure the sustainability and full traceability of raw materials.”
“Production Processes: Improvements and optimization of production processes drive Kering’s corporate social responsibility and environmental protection progress.”
“New Business Models: To ensure enduring success, Kering is firmly committed to disruptive innovation, transforming the traditional luxury industry model.”
“Upcycling, Recycling, and Regeneration: Upcycling, recycling, and regeneration are key drivers of change in the fashion and luxury industry.”
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⏰ Published on: February 14, 2026