Editor’s Note
This article explores how jeweler Glenn Spiro and his son have woven 17th-century Baoulé gold artifacts into their latest collection, blending historical craftsmanship with contemporary design.
For over a decade, British jeweler Glenn Spiro and his son, Joe, have been collecting 17th-century Baoulé gold artifacts, finely etched and handworked by the African tribespeople. This year, they combined these decorative elements with antique diamonds and other centuries-old treasures in his Materials of the Old World collection.
says the elder Spiro, known for his unconventional way of setting rare stones. In his hands, statement pieces—like this necklace with Baoulé fragments, ancient amber beads, and diamonds—draw attention not for their carat weight but for their striking composition.
Harry Winston earned his reputation as the King of Diamonds by acquiring the world’s rarest stones, most notably the 45.52-carat deep-blue Hope Diamond, which he donated to the Smithsonian Museum of Natural History in Washington, D.C., in 1958. Following in his footsteps, his son Ronald (who is no longer affiliated with the house) gave the Winston Red, a 2.33-carat fancy-red diamond, to the museum in 2023; it went on view for the first time this year.
The company’s CEO, Nayla Hayek, who is also chairwoman of parent company Swatch Group, has similarly remained steadfast to the founder’s passion for exquisite colored diamonds. Among the brand’s treasures are the Winston Blue, a 13.22-carat vivid-blue diamond; the Winston Pink Legacy, an 18.96-carat vivid-pink diamond; and this newly acquired 5.22-carat fancy-intense-pink cushion-cut stone. Set in a platinum and 18-karat-rose-gold ring and surrounded by approximately 1.64 carats of white diamonds, it’s destined for a connoisseur with a museum-worthy collection.
Set with 10 octagonal-cut antique Afghan (Tajikistan) spinels dating to the 19th century, this bracelet is a prime example of Santi designer Krishna Choudhary’s exceptional access to historic stones. Based in Jaipur for 10 generations, his family has sourced gems for India’s maharajas and nobility for centuries. Now, the 36-year-old Choudhary—who studied art before becoming a jeweler—has forged his own path by setting antique gems in modern geometric designs. Because of its complexity, this articulated open-worked titanium bracelet, featuring an intricate lattice of custom-cut baguette diamonds, took three years to complete. It was worth the wait.
This extravagant necklace is the pièce de résistance of Van Cleef & Arpels’s Treasure Island high-jewelry collection, launched in Miami earlier this year with a grand gala at the Vizcaya Museum—complete with dancing pirates. Set in white gold with diamonds, a 31.99-carat emerald-cut Colombian emerald, and a giant cabochon-cut turquoise pendant, the necklace represents a perfect combination of skill in stone setting and an eye for color. The twisted marine knots of its rope-like collar play to the theme, but its true inspiration comes from a 1979 archival design. Unlike its somewhat restrained predecessor, this piece is significantly more substantial in terms of both gems and craftsmanship. It transforms to be worn without the turquoise drop or with a separate diamond, turquoise, and emerald tassel pendant. What better way to tie one on?
A testament to Hemmerle’s innovative approach, this ring features traditional tourmalines set in architectural sculptural bronze, creating a cool factor that sets it apart from typical high jewelry fare.