Editor’s Note
This article examines the shifting landscape of luxury watchmaking, where the traditional dominance of specialist watchmakers is being challenged by renowned jewelers. It explores how these houses are leveraging their heritage in design and craftsmanship to carve out a significant space in the haute horology market.
There’s a saying: “Leave rice cakes to the rice cake maker.” It’s a proverb meaning that in all things, the specialist in that field is the most skilled. Particularly in the world of luxury watches, this tendency has long existed, with a strong trend favoring dedicated watchmakers. However, that atmosphere is now changing.
If we trace back history, it wasn’t uncommon for jewelers, like Cartier in the past, to create creative exteriors and purchase movements from other companies to craft beautiful watches. Also, Piaget started as a watch workshop and later expanded its field to jewelry making, leading to its current position. In other words, it can be said that luxury watches and jewelry have always had a seamless relationship.
So, when did jewelers start actively making watches in the modern sense? The pioneer was Bulgari. The maison established Bulgari Time, a company dedicated to wristwatch manufacturing, in the 1970s and began producing creative watches that harmonized Italian design with Swiss technology.
A high-level fusion of design and function that transcends the framework of a watch. This unique stimulation from high jewelers’ watches is blowing a new wind through the luxury watch industry.
Artistry resides in its lustrous appearance. The symbol of Cartier is expressed artistically. A beautiful panther stands amidst overlapping grasses expressed with extremely thin, delicate gold leaf.
Hand-wound, 18K yellow gold case, diameter 36mm. ¥14,124,000 [Reference Price]
Spares no expense in employing exceptional jewelry techniques. This watch, expressing the treasure of time, is set with 978 diamonds, the ultimate treasure created by Earth. Limited to 5 pieces worldwide. Available exclusively at boutiques.
Automatic, 18K rose gold case, diameter 42.2mm. ¥108,746,000
Founded in 1858, it also has a long history in watchmaking. Having crafted pocket watches since its founding, its affection for watches runs deep. The dial is adorned with Pegasus and decorated with diamonds. Both the mechanism and the jewelry are splendid. Unique piece.
Automatic, 18K white gold case, diameter 43mm. ¥42,504,000 [Estimated Price]
The charm of the godron pattern transcends history. A modern evolution of the model born in 1979. The godron (horizontal stripe) pattern created with satin-finished and polished parts exudes an elegant yet strong impression.
Automatic, 18K white gold case, diameter 38mm. ¥13,816,000
Ultra-thin despite housing a tourbillon. The thickness of the “Cal.BVL268” movement is 1.95mm, and even with a dial made of thinly cut deep green Verde Alpi marble, the case thickness is only 4.85mm. A watch that can be called the culmination of beauty and technique.
Hand-wound, 18K yellow gold case, diameter 40mm. Price upon request.
Lightly wrapped in quiet sensuality. Popular for its contemporary design, TASAKI has incorporated the style of its iconic “Balance” jewelry into a watch. The faintly glowing gold is the company’s proprietary material.
Automatic, 18K SAKURA Gold × Stainless Steel case, diameter 39.5mm. ¥1,760,000