Editor’s Note
As Boucheron celebrates the opening of its 100th boutique in Zurich, CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne reflects on balancing innovation with heritage, her enthusiasm for auctions, and the enduring allure of exceptional gemstones.
Interview
On the occasion of the recent opening of Boucheron’s 100th boutique in Zurich, CEO Hélène Poulit-Duquesne discusses innovation, heritage, and her passion for auctions and gemstones.
From Watches to Jewelry
Hélène Poulit-Duquesne, before you joined Boucheron in 2015, you worked for twenty years in the watch sector at Cartier. Why the switch to the world of jewelry?
“Jewelry offers enormous potential and is a resilient category. You can see this perfectly today with the phenomenal gold price. It’s always a good option to invest in jewelry. When I started, many expected an expansion of the watch segment. I decided differently, namely that we would focus exclusively on jewelry; at least at the beginning. The market was for a long time not very ‘brand-driven’: Just a few years ago, around 80 percent of jewelry was sold without major luxury labels, today it’s about 70 percent – that offers growth potential.”
Strategic Goals and Markets
What are the next goals then?
“The USA is our big chapter. Until recently, we had no stores there. In 2024 we opened in New York, then in Las Vegas, in 2025 in Los Angeles, soon in Miami. A brand new market for us – an El Dorado. Red carpets play an important role in the conquest.”
And what is the significance of a presence in German-speaking Switzerland, with the newly opened boutique in Zurich?
“The boutique is our hundredth worldwide – a symbolic milestone. German-speaking Switzerland is small but strategically important. While Geneva is very international, we see great potential with local clientele in Zurich.”
How has Boucheron developed strategically overall?
“We are part of the Kering group. When I started at Boucheron in 2015, I presented a five-year plan. At that time we had no boutique in China, today there are seventeen boutiques. Covid changed consumer behavior significantly; previously 80 percent of Chinese luxury sales were achieved abroad, today about half are domestic.”
The State of the Luxury Industry
How do you assess the current situation of the luxury industry?
“In our category, things are going well. 90 percent of our sales are achieved in retail. As a pure jewelry brand, we are less dependent on the economic cycle, as jewelry – especially with high gold and gemstone value – is perceived more as a long-term value investment and therefore reacts less strongly to economic cycles than, for example, the watch segment. As for leather goods or champagne, I’m not an expert, but the situation seems more complicated.”
The History and Heritage of Boucheron
Let’s come back to the history of Boucheron at this point. How did it all begin?
Frédéric Boucheron (1830–1902), son of a cloth merchant dealing in precious fabrics like silk and lace, began at fourteen in a Parisian atelier, where he initially curated jewelry for important clients. In 1858 he founded his brand at the Palais Royal, opened his own atelier in 1866, and later moved to the Place Vendôme, then still a residential quarter. The textile world inspired him: knots, bows, textile impressions he transferred into jewelry. At the Paris World’s Fair between 1867 and 1900, he was awarded gold medals multiple times and, as one of the most innovative jewelers of his time, also received the “Légion d’honneur” order.
Is there a special design from that era that is still known today?
In 1879 he designed the question mark necklace – an open, twisted creation without a clasp. For the first time, women could adorn themselves without assistance. Technically and socially, this was revolutionary.
Boucheron Today: Style and Innovation
And what does Boucheron stand for today?
“For style and innovation. We push the boundaries of high jewelry, both technically and aesthetically. Innovation for us is not an end in itself, but a means to tell dreams or make societal statements.”
What can still be innovative in jewelry?
“Everything that evokes emotions. In the 2020 High Jewelry collection, our Creative Director Claire Choisne wanted the wearer to carry a piece of the sky. She worked with aerogel – a material developed by NASA that is 99.8 percent air. Encased in rock crystal, a set of necklace and bracelet was created, where technology serves poetry.”
Does this also apply to the fine jewelry lines?
“Innovation arises primarily in high jewelry, where we develop prototypes and unique pieces. In the series, it’s more difficult.”
Is there nevertheless a design in this segment that embodies the DNA of the house?
The Quatre ring. Constructed like a watch movement with four golden motifs assembled via a press system, manufactured with five-axis machines – closer to watchmaking than classic jewelry casting. It unites our codes: diamond line, Clou de Paris, double godron – and stands for graphic strength.
Nature as Inspiration
Besides graphic rigor, nature is also a theme, isn’t it?
“Yes. Frédéric Boucheron depicted simple and wild plants like ivy, ferns, or forest plants realistically – no idealized roses. This poetic dimension shapes us to this day.”
