【日本】The Tale of the Life-Saving Blue Sapphire: What Are the True Conditions for ‘Jewelry That Increases in Value’?

Editor’s Note

This article recounts the dramatic escape of Empress Eugénie from revolutionary Paris in 1870, focusing on a single, invaluable heirloom that secured her passage to safety. It is a vivid glimpse into a pivotal historical moment through the lens of a personal treasure.

「ザ・サクラ」ファンシービビッドパープルピンクダイヤモンド
The Family Heirloom Blue Sapphire That Saved a Fleeing Empress

The reign of French Emperor Napoleon III was nearing its end with defeat in the Franco-Prussian War and the emperor himself taken prisoner. In 1870, an angry mob shouting to overthrow the empire surged into the Tuileries Palace in Paris. Empress Eugénie trembled, recalling the tragedy of Marie Antoinette.
Fleeing the palace with only the clothes on her back, Eugénie traveled day and night towards the port. Her only possessions were two handkerchiefs and a blue sapphire pendant passed down through the Napoleon family. It is said that the empress, who barely escaped to Britain by yacht, gave the pendant to the yacht’s owner.
Jewelry has helped many people and served as a lifeline during times of great societal upheaval. Only high-quality jewelry could provide such aid. So, what constitutes valuable jewelry?

The First Value: ‘Value as a Gemstone’

The first value of jewelry is its “value as a gemstone.” Natural gemstones that are extremely beautiful and produced in very small quantities are in high demand. Items that many people passionately desire but of which only a handful exist naturally increase in value.

「ヴァン クリーフ&アーペル」のミステリーセットブローチ

For example, “The Sakura,” the largest purple-pink diamond ever to appear at auction, which debuted at a Christie’s sale in 2021, sold for approximately 3.78 billion yen, making headlines. Its natural vivid color without human intervention, high transparency, and exceptional size of over 15 carats drove up the price.

“The Sakura, A Fancy Vivid Purple Pink Diamond. Lot name: ‘The Sakura’ Fancy Vivid Purple Pink Diamond. Estimate: HKD 195,000,000–300,000,000. Sold for: HKD 223,412,500. Appeared at a Hong Kong auction in 2021. Weighing 15.81 carats, certified as Fancy Vivid Purple Pink, IF (Internally Flawless), it set an auction record per carat price.”
Not Called ‘Brand Items’ but ‘Signed Pieces’

The second value is the “value of craftsmanship.” Like traditional crafts, the superlative skill of master artisans carries artistic value. Micro-arts such as engraving, metal forging, gem carving, and stone setting perfectly enhance the beauty of gems the more delicate they are.

“Van Cleef & Arpels, Sapphire and Diamond ‘Mystery-Set’ Double-Flower Brooch. Lot name: Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery-Set Brooch. Estimate: USD 200,000–300,000. Sold for: USD 575,000. A signed piece by Van Cleef & Arpels featuring blue flowers expressed through Mystery Set blue sapphires. This extremely labor-intensive setting, taking an average of 1,200 hours to complete one piece, is considered a specialty of this maison.”

The third value is “design value.” This could be likened to a painter being tested on expressiveness or an architect being required to create excellent spatial composition.

「ブルガリ」のセルペンティブレスレットウォッチ

Every jeweler has iconic representative motifs, and legendary motifs that are instantly recognizable as belonging to a particular jeweler are also highly popular. These lead to the fourth value: “brand value.”

“Bvlgari, Diamond and Ruby ‘Serpenti’ Bracelet-Watch. Lot name: Bvlgari Serpenti Bracelet-Watch. Estimate: CHF 200,000–300,000. Sold for: CHF 250,000. A Bvlgari ‘Serpenti’ bracelet-watch made in the 1960s. A luxurious design using a Jaeger-LeCoultre manual-wind movement; opening the snake’s head reveals the dial.”

Although not yet a common term in Japan, so-called brand-name high jewelry is called “signed pieces” in English. Meaning items bearing the maker’s signature, signed pieces by famous jewelers indeed hold value.

The Fifth Value: ‘Historical Value’

And the fifth value is “historical value.” Marie Antoinette’s bracelet, which appeared at a Christie’s Geneva auction, is a good example. This bracelet was one of the jewels secretly sent separately to Belgium when the royal family attempted to flee abroad. The jewels reached Belgium, but the royal family was captured by revolutionaries just before the border. This bracelet, imbued with the drama of the royal family’s glory and downfall, sold for approximately 980 million yen.

“The Historic Marie-Antoinette Diamonds A Stunning Pair of Diamond Bracelets. Lot name: A Pair of Diamond Bracelets Formerly in the Collection of Marie-Antoinette. Estimate: CHF 2,000,000–4,000,000. Sold for: CHF 7,459,000. The bracelet formerly owned by Queen Marie-Antoinette, which became global news in 2021. Inherited by her daughter Marie-Thérèse, who survived the revolution, and passed down through the ducal family of Parma. Adorned with 112 old-cut diamonds.”
マリー・アントワネット旧蔵ダイヤモンドブレスレット(ペア)

Jewelry possessing these five values is worthy of being owned as an asset, just like paintings or crafts. However, this is not to say it’s ideal for investment simply because price appreciation can be expected.
As jewelry is worn and cherished, it becomes imbued with the owner’s sentiments. This can be called the sixth value: “emotional value.” When this is present, jewelry transforms into an asset that surpasses paintings and crafts.

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⏰ Published on: June 22, 2022