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【Paris, Franc】Hidden Gems: Craft and Quality in the New Season

Oct 1, 2020

Editor’s Note

**Editor’s Note:** In this exclusive Q&A, Boucheron’s creative director Claire Choisne and CEO Hélène Poulit Duquesne discuss their five-year partnership, the first female-led leadership in the maison’s 160-year history, and their shared vision to refocus the house on women.

Industry Q&A: Claire Choisne and Hélène Poulit Duquesne, Creative Director and CEO, Boucheron, Paris

For the past five years (and for the first time in its 160-year history) French fine jewellery house Boucheron has been run by two women: creative director Claire Choisne and CEO Hélène Poulit Duquesne, formerly of Cartier. Choisne and Poulit Duquesne, both Parisians, have found success in their like-minded dynamic and a clear strategy of bringing women back to the heart of the house, which is owned by luxury group Kering.
What makes Boucheron so distinct, when compared with other French jewellery brands?

“We are the most creative and innovative jewellery maison on Place Vendôme in Paris. We want to free women, to style the jewellery on them, to make it all about them, while I think the majority of the other houses here are more product-centric. Our philosophy for clients is all about generosity. That was a key part of the brief to the architect when we redesigned the shop [in 2018]: the design was about receiving the client like a friend, not intimidating them. We are an open maison; sincere. Claire and I are very natural and that is part of our story today.”

CLAIRE CHOISNE:

“It’s more about continuity. We are not working against the past, rather I am allowed to be as free as possible. There are no restrictions, there is no limit on the materials I can use or the techniques I can employ.”

Your work must require great patience. Jewellery has a slower pace than fashion, for example.
HPD:

“Jewellery does have a different pace, though, because we are working on items that need to last for eternity. Our crucial philosophy is to have a long-term perspective. It would be very difficult for me to have a collection every two weeks and to make something that doesn’t last; you never throw jewellery away.”

When you’re surrounded by such a strong sense of heritage, how do you keep moving forward?
CC:

“Yes, for the craftsman that’s true. But for creation the rhythm can be fast. That suits me.”

Claire Choisne and Hélène Poulit Duquesne of Boucheron sitting in an ornate Parisian interior

The industry is no doubt facing challenges right now but do you see any positives coming out of the current business climate in terms of the way in which you work?
HPD:

“It has changed a lot of things for us that will be good for the future. We have really proved that we could be very agile because we are small and very connected. I was so proud of the team.”

boucheron.com

Brand Watch: Eleven Eleven, India

This unisex brand by New York-based Mia Morikawa and Shani Himanshu, who lives in Delhi, is a celebration of Indian craftsmanship. They work with weavers and dyers across the country, favouring traditional techniques, such as chindi patchwork, bandhani tie-dye and kantha, which gives a quilting effect. The soft fabrics and easy cuts are comfortable enough for home and possess a crafty uniqueness.

“Our work is a form of resistance,” says Morikawa. “It reflects slow living. We found an alternative to fast fashion in the humble handloom.”

11-11.us

Brand Watch: John Lobb, UK

Esteemed British bootmaker John Lobb has called Northampton home since 1994. With a cobbling industry that dates back to the 15th century, the town’s shoemaking heritage is one that the Hermès-owned brand now harnesses to produce fine, handcrafted men’s and women’s boots, brogues and oxfords.

Boucheron jewellery workshop craftsperson at work

It’s an approach that artistic director Paula Gerbase embraced on joining John Lobb in 2014.

“You have generations of families working in this building and not involving them in the creative process would have been mad,” she says.

For evidence of the traditionally crafted shoes still pushing design boundaries, look to this year’s 75th anniversary reissue of the William double buckle.
johnlobb.com

Brand Watch: Au Départ, Italy

Au Départ (“at the departure” in English) was founded in 1834 but reinvigorated at Milan Design Week in 2019 through an installation by interiors studio Dimore. The highlighting of vintage trunks in a contemporary environment was a metaphor for a brand reborn. While Au Départ was always respected for its elegant travel goods it has extended its range into accessories and leather goods. While chairman and CEO Gianfranco Maccarrone (ex Dsquared2) leads the brand into these new categories, its geometric monogrammed canvas launched in the 1920s remains an Au Départ hallmark.
Why does food pair with jewellery?

“We’ve recently introduced table jewellery – napkin rings and candle holders – so it’s in line with our brand universe. Food and jewellery is what’s passed down between generations; they’re both heirlooms. We worked with head chef Roberta from Pasta Evangelists to create a holiday menu.”

Dinner starts at 19.00, and diners arrive at 18.00 to have drinks, wander the piazza and choose jewellery.

Person wearing blue linen shirt and matching pants in minimalist interior setting

“We offer a 20 per cent discount on the jewellery. People need an incentive and an experience to shop now and it’s about building relationships.”

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⏰ Published on: October 01, 2020