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【United Kingd】Jewellery: How to Make the Most of ‘The New Lipstick’

Editor’s Note

**Editor’s Note:** This article examines the surge in costume jewellery sales during the pandemic, driven by consumers seeking affordable, spontaneous purchases. We explore how high street retailers, including Next, are expanding their offerings in this category, with insights from supplier DCK Group.

Costume Jewellery Boom During Pandemic

Magpie-like consumers have caused sales of costume jewellery to soar during the pandemic, as they shop for fun, spontaneous and inexpensive purchases. High street retailers are increasingly happy to provide this category by adding it to their offers. Best known for supplying Topshop’s Freedom range, independent jewellery supplier DCK Group partnered with Next in June to create new launches in August. It includes 14 options of earrings, necklaces and bracelets made using recycled brass and freshwater pearls, at £20 or less, and will be stocked in the brand’s Carnaby pop-up shop and online. The business supplied Topshop’s Freedom jewellery range for more than 25 years, and has continued to do so since Asos bought the womenswear brand in February.

“When retail is tough, brands look to outsource their jewellery ranges, as jewellery is quite a specialist area to buy. It has a different supply base from clothing and a wide option count, which requires a large team to run.”

Kate Bryant, buying director at DCK, believes that the trend for costume jewellery has accelerated as a result of the pandemic. She added:

“In terms of the market, more and more brands seem to be looking at a multi-branded strategy to broaden their customer base. I think retailers recognise the value in brands to drive footfall and it works where you can mix branded looks on social media. Customers want to be shown how to wear the whole look, the jewellery and accessories with their outfit.”
Jewellery Bonus: Online Sales Surge

Rebecca Jones is senior jewellery buyer at a retailer with its own in-house jewellery range. It retails from £9.50 for a pair of stud earrings, to £35 for statement necklaces. It also has an affordable luxury range, starting at £12 for a pair of silver or gold-plated studs and rising to around £59.50 for a gold-plated necklace.
Oliver Bonas also has an exclusively online jewellery offering, which sells at higher price points. It launched the Flower Moon gold-plated jewellery collection in collaboration with influencer Liv Purvis exclusively online in June, priced at £45 for a pack of three pairs of gold-plated earrings to £95 for a gold-plated pendant necklace. Oliver Bonas does monthly drops of fashion jewellery and releases finer jewellery once every two months.

“Customers are buying our fine jewellery much more strongly online. Before the pandemic, consumers would buy more jewellery in store because it was tactile. People’s shopping habits have changed now.”

Jones explains that online sales of fine jewellery have risen from 17% of the total jewellery sales two years ago to 49% this year. She adds that brightly coloured costume jewellery and statement pieces have been the success story of its online jewellery sales.
A department store reports that sales of jewellery have been strong as consumers emerged from lockdown. It stocks jewellery from brands including Ralph Lauren, Vivienne Westwood, Alighieri, Crystal Haze, Anna Beck and Loverocks. Prices range from around £22 for a pair of rainbow stars drop earrings from Loverocks to vintage pieces that sell for hundreds of pounds.

Estella Bartlett necklaces
“Vintage and antique jewellery have been hugely popular, and vintage brands such as Jennifer Gibson Jewellery have experienced substantial growth, thanks to both trend-driven demand and an increase in sustainability awareness.”

Claridge observes a renewed interest in jewellery in lockdown:

“A lot of working people are having the vast majority of their meetings online and some have changed their buying habits. People can easily update their wardrobe with a new pair of earrings or a necklace instead of clothing.”

Nikki Gewirtz, founder of jewellery brand Lola Rose, says:

“Through conversations with my customers, they have suggested that they are purchasing less new clothing because of the lockdown and are instead looking to re-accessorise their existing looks from 2020.”

The brand is stocked by John Lewis and Fenwick, and sells direct to consumer on its website. Retail prices start at £25 for bracelets and rise to £350 for more premium pieces.

Jewellery as a Key Category for Retailers

Apee Bhutani, the co-founder of women’s and men’s wear store DAY in Peckham, south-east London, tells Drapers that jewellery was one its biggest sellers throughout all three national lockdowns, alongside lingerie. It currently stocks three jewellery brands: Dansk Copenhagen, Beho Studio and Enamel Copenhagen, which she added mid-July.

“People wanted to treat themselves when they were going out. Lots of people were gifting jewellery. The price points are a bit lower [than clothing] and, when stores reopened, shoppers would come in with friends and buy rings together – they’d wear them straight out of the shop. Jewellery makes up 20%-30% of our sales – sometimes we were selling more jewellery than clothes.”

Bhutani says that getting the right mix of jewellery styles is crucial. DAY stocks Scandinavian brands such as Samsøe Samsøe and Coster Copenhagen, and so found jewellery brands to fit a similar aesthetic. Dansk pieces are minimalist, with sleek, simple designs such as drop earrings and chunky chain bracelets. Pieces are gold plated and retail prices range from £17 for a pair of earrings to £50 for necklaces.
Bhutani brought in Enamel Copenhagen to add a touch of colour to the store’s jewellery offer, after noticing the trend. The brand offers pastel-coloured beads on minimal pieces such as fine chain necklaces, bracelets and charm earrings. Retail prices range from £35 for a pair of sterling silver, gold-plated drop earrings to £115 for a sterling silver, 18k gold-plated necklace.

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⏰ Published on: August 09, 2021