Kering has launched CRAFT, a creative residency for Chinese designers, offering unprecedented access to its luxury ecosystem, including jewelry manufacturers and ateliers. For overseas jewelry buyers, this signals Kering’s deepening commitment to Chinese talent and its jewelry category, potentially shaping future trends in bridal, gemstone, and fine jewelry collections sourced from China.
Program Overview and Advisory Board
In early November at the 8th China International Import Expo in Shanghai, Kering CEO Luca de Meo signed a memorandum of understanding with Shanghai Fashion Week to launch CRAFT (Creative Residency for Artisanship, Fashion and Technology). The program targets promising Chinese designers and spans residencies in Italy, Paris, and Shanghai. An advisory board was assembled by February, including Gucci’s artistic director Demna, Kering Greater China president Cai Jinqing, Chinese couturier Guo Pei, Qeelin creative director Dennis Chan, Xiaohongshu founder Miranda Qu, and Vanity Fair Europe editorial director Simone Marchetti.
Jewelry Focus and Supply-Chain Relevance
Three of the 10 inaugural designers operate in the jewelry space, reflecting Kering’s ambitions in the category. The group created a dedicated jewelry division earlier this year to scale maisons like Boucheron and develop jewelry within fashion houses like Gucci. Kering’s 2013 acquisition of Qeelin underscores its familiarity with Chinese jewelry. During the residency, designers visited Raselli Franco, a jewelry manufacturer in Valenza recently acquired by Kering, gaining insights into production and craftsmanship.
Designer Insights and Cultural Connections
Xu, co-founder of jewelry brand Qiqi, draws inspiration from traditional Chinese cultural relics such as Buddhist beads and bamboo fans, making them contemporary and wearable. Longhong Ziwei, founder of Soft Mountains jewelry label from Yunnan’s Yi ethnic minority, noted how heritage houses like Gucci reinterpret history for modern audiences. During a visit to Gucci’s archives, designers observed the bamboo motif—a Gucci icon linked to Chinese culture—as a point of connection for local consumers.
What Buyers Should Watch
Overseas buyers should monitor Kering’s CRAFT program as a pipeline for emerging Chinese jewelry designers who may seek OEM/ODM partnerships or private-label collaborations. The program’s emphasis on scaling businesses and retail expansion suggests potential for new collections in sterling silver, gold-plated brass, and gemstone jewelry. Kering’s investment in jewelry manufacturing, including the Valenza facility, may influence quality standards and supply-chain capabilities for Chinese sourcing.
Compliance and Logistics Signals
Kering’s residency included access to sales data and upcoming collections under NDAs, highlighting the importance of intellectual property protection in cross-border collaborations. Buyers should note that Chinese designers are increasingly integrating traditional materials with contemporary design, which may affect compliance with international trade regulations for gemstone and pearl jewelry. The program’s focus on heritage reinterpretation could drive demand for ethically sourced materials and transparent supply chains.
Source: Read the original report | Published: June 04, 2026